Climbs 112
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 313m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Crag features

Routes up to 33m. Popular with teaching groups (you are warned). A fine selection of routes, including Phobia (E1 5b), To The Batmoblie(HVS 5b) and a prime first lead Massascent Groove (VD).

Also a wide range of bouldering on lower tier.

There is even a few Highball boulder problems like Harry The Spiders Comeing Out Party (E3)

Approach notes

From the A465 head for a T junction (OS ref ST 049 092) where a track joins an unclassed road. Over the road a gate takes an old tram road running N along the hillside. Follow this for 5 mins.

Be aware that cars parked here are subject to vandalism, breakins etc as the broken windscreen on the road will testify. It's best to park down the road next to the pub and walk in from there.

Or (from the SW or N): leave A470 or A465, join road along Taf Fechan valley. Follow for 2.5mi to the Aberglais pub, continue 200m uphill to Pont sarn pub. Park in car park opposite.

Descend to disused railway line and cross viaduct, and up steep bank to middle of quarry.

Empty your car - there have been many thefts.

Restricted Access

This site is on private land (Merthyr Golf Club?) and access for climbing appears to be tolerated. The land on which the crags are located is not mapped or designated as open access land. 

An interesting crag with a pleasant open outlook. There are a lot of scrappy lower grade routes here and some polish but there are also some excellent sheer walls with good routes and slabby stuff of good high friction rock. The idiot organised groups use the middle tier and they are trashing it. If you see them there tell them to bugger off.
The Pylon King - 27/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

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