More like a route than a boulder problem, Extra Otis traverses the entire Black Hole from right to left.
Start on the jug at the far right end of the Black Hole. Downclimb into the Tendinitis Traverse, reverse the Breashear's Crack, and then continue left across the Black Hole using any holds to reach a good kneebar rest just before the Wisdom Simulator. Once you have recovered, make a reachy move to gain the starting holds of the Wisdom Simulator, and then grunt your way through a crimpy, body tension crux to easier, yet surprisingly pumpy terrain that ends when you reach a horizontal crack at the left end of the wall.
Although this traverse isn't much to look at, it's got awesome moves, and provides a great challenge. Plus, besides the initial downclimbing, Extra Otis can be safely worked without a spotter.
Start on the jug at the far right end of the Black Hole. Downclimb into the Tendinitis Traverse, reverse the Breashear's Crack, and then continue left across the Black Hole using any holds to reach a good kneebar rest just before the Wisdom Simulator. Once you have recovered, make a reachy move to gain the starting holds of the Wisdom Simulator, and then grunt your way through a crimpy, body tension crux to easier, yet surprisingly pumpy terrain that ends when you reach a horizontal crack at the left end of the wall.
Although this traverse isn't much to look at, it's got awesome moves, and provides a great challenge. Plus, besides the initial downclimbing, Extra Otis can be safely worked without a spotter.
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Route of Interest
Bark At The Moon
Grade: V11 ***
(Guanella Pass)