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Climbs 85
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Blowing the cobwebs away © Dave Foster

Crag features

Mother Carey's Kitchen is one of Pembroke's best crags offering superb climbing in a great location, with routes from Severe to E7, and with few restrictions due to nesting birds or army shooting practice - in fact, mid-week in the first half of the year can leave it as the only major crag which is available to climb on! 

It is often popularly known as 'Mother Scarys' which is easy to appreciate as you heave up Rock Idol, or dangle from the Space Face, however, not everything here is steep and exposed, and the routes near Crithmum provide some of the best Severe and VS climbing along the whole coast.

Approach notes

Approach from the Lydstep Point NT car park in 5 mins.

Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 2020 update: Please do not abseil from the stake above The Cracks due to new bird nests in this area.

This crag is not in the MoD range. Some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  .

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

2020 - There are several new nests (auks and choughs) in cracks to the left of and inside the chimney area (behind Brazen Buttress)

Please do not climb the routes from 'The Cracks' to 'Inner Space' including the routes inside the chimney ('Threadneedle Street', 'Eight Guage', 'Tempest',  'Galaxy' etc.) and before climbing 'Deep Space', please visually check for bird activity (we are not sure of the exact location of all nest sites yet.   'Brazen Buttress' itself, + direct versions and 'Heroes', 'Herod' are OK but please minimise disturbance and be prepared to change plans.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
The flake on "CRITHMUM" has gone leaving a dirty and loose groove in its place. Its not too bad if you are careful and i guess will clean up in time but i would give it HVS 5a and 1 star at most.
The Pylon King - 13/Aug/07
An inspiring small crag, though not sure you could spend more than a day or two there at any grade. April 2006 - The stakes at the top seem to have somehow disappeared; we couldn't find any! However, there is still enough large, sturdy rock at the top to give confident abseiling.
Pythonist - 18/Apr/06
amazing steep crag with dramatic but well protected routes - worth spending a couple of days at.
beanfingers - 27/Feb/06
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Climbs at this crag

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