At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Blowing the cobwebs away © Dave Foster
Mother Carey's Kitchen is one of Pembroke's best crags offering superb climbing in a great location, with routes from Severe to E7, and with few restrictions due to nesting birds or army shooting practice - in fact, mid-week in the first half of the year can leave it as the only major crag which is available to climb on!
It is often popularly known as 'Mother Scarys' which is easy to appreciate as you heave up Rock Idol, or dangle from the Space Face, however, not everything here is steep and exposed, and the routes near Crithmum provide some of the best Severe and VS climbing along the whole coast.
Approach from the Lydstep Point NT car park in 5 mins.
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 2020 update: Please do not abseil from the stake above The Cracks due to new bird nests in this area.
This crag is not in the MoD range. Some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. .
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
2020 - There are several new nests (auks and choughs) in cracks to the left of and inside the chimney area (behind Brazen Buttress)
Please do not climb the routes from 'The Cracks' to 'Inner Space' including the routes inside the chimney ('Threadneedle Street', 'Eight Guage', 'Tempest', 'Galaxy' etc.) and before climbing 'Deep Space', please visually check for bird activity (we are not sure of the exact location of all nest sites yet. 'Brazen Buttress' itself, + direct versions and 'Heroes', 'Herod' are OK but please minimise disturbance and be prepared to change plans.
|The flake on "CRITHMUM" has gone leaving a dirty and loose groove in its place. Its not too bad if you are careful and i guess will clean up in time but i would give it HVS 5a and 1 star at most.|
The Pylon King - 13/Aug/07
|An inspiring small crag, though not sure you could spend more than a day or two there at any grade.
April 2006 - The stakes at the top seem to have somehow disappeared; we couldn't find any! However, there is still enough large, sturdy rock at the top to give confident abseiling.|
Pythonist - 18/Apr/06
|amazing steep crag with dramatic but well protected routes - worth spending a couple of days at.|
beanfingers - 27/Feb/06
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