UKC

3491m. From where the North Glacier route swings right, continue left up the glacier to reach a col at the base of a steep, right-trending shoulder. Cross a bergschrund and head straight up the shoulder on 40- to 45-degree snow and/or ice for about 300 vertical metres, using running protection or pitching out if necessary. Upon reaching the false summit, follow the West Ridge briefly left to the summit.

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Fred Beckey's 100 Favourite North American Climbs

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