3491m. From where the North Glacier route swings right, continue left up the glacier to reach a col at the base of a steep, right-trending shoulder. Cross a bergschrund and head straight up the shoulder on 40- to 45-degree snow and/or ice for about 300 vertical metres, using running protection or pitching out if necessary. Upon reaching the false summit, follow the West Ridge briefly left to the summit.


Fred Beckey's 100 Favourite North American Climbs


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