UKC

1370m. Follow the normal route to the Bethlemi hut (3670m). Climb can be started from here or pass the hut and follow a rocky trail to a small church at ~3900m. Bivouac is possible inside (max 2 people). From the church, head towards the face to reach a snow slope leading to a couloir, possible ice pitches here. Above the couloir, head up the face, keeping to the right and passing by a large gendarme at ~4700m. There is frequent rockfall on the face. Above the gendarme, expect less than ideal ice ~45°. Keep climbing straight up until reaching a false summit. Cross a plateau along its right side and climb the last slope to the summit. Descend by the normal Georgian route along the glacier.

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