Altitude 123m a.s.l
Sandra Provenzano on Ornella (6a) at the Bonzo Sector of Roccia dello Schiavo © Massimo Cappuccio
The impressive Roccia dello Schiavo is of great significance to the climbers of Sicily since it was here that climbing on the island first started in the 1940s. The giant rock pillar stands proudly above the city yet, despite this proximity, it has a tranquil feel and is in a national park. As with many old-school venues, it is not as popular these days hence a good place to head for if other areas are busy.
Historically development involved long multi-pitch routes with limited fixed gear. In more recent times, activity has focussed on the lower pitches only and the upper sections are something of an unknown quantity which aren't covered in this book. Re-equipping has taken place, and there is some old gear still on the lower pitches.
From the Partanna roundabout in the north of the city, head west on the dual carriageway towards Monte Gallo which is obvious in front of you. Go through two roundabouts and, at the end by some impressive old trees, follow the road right to join the long road which goes north to south on this side of Monte Gallo. Turn right and drive down here for 2.2km where a one-way system sends you right, then back left, onto another road parallel to the cliffs. After 1.4km an open space for parking is visible on your right. Locate the path opposite the parking entrance and go through the woods to another road. Cross this and go up a track with a barrier opposite. Head up the slope to the right-hand set of steps. At the top, go rightwards and follow the windy path up the hill. At the next level, take the upper path heading left keeping the boulder fence on your right until you arrive at the crag.
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