Climbs 148
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 78m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Rebecca Costanza on Furto d'Autire (6b+) at Valdesi. © Alan James

Crag features

Crag has many routes in the 6s and some low to mid 7s. Bolts conditions are mostly good considering how close it is to the sea. Some routes however still require rebolting, use your judgment but there are plenty of rebolted routes which make up for the few potentially dangerus ones. The crag has an amazing view of the bay and on a clear day you can see the island of panteleria . The rock is moslty good quality, however wearing a helmet would be advised since the top of the crag can be visited by animals ( a herd of goat kicks about the hill). Some multipitches are present, the guide often reccomends to absail back down, however its very easy to walk back by following the path that leads to the gully feature right of the crag.

Pablo sector access: There currenlty is a person living in the cave in pablo and has a dog, be cautios if you visit this area of the crag.

UPDATE 10/01/20 there was a rock fall just right and up fo Greta, the routes seem to be in good conditions , but if you are heading there this month be aware that that side of the cliff could be unstable currently 

Approach notes

Parking is possible at the base of the crag on the opposite side of the road, make sure the car is parked off the road as much as possible. Take care when on the road, people and cyclist go quite fast round the bend! 

Previous comment mentioned used condoms and needles, I did not see any at the crag during the 2 visits over new year 2013/14. Though I could see how such a place may be misused. Quite liked the crag too.
Kevster - 05/Jan/14
Warning.... Please be very carefull when visiting the Valdesi area. The main parking spot was littered with used condoms and on and around the path at the base of the crag there were dozens of used needles. Be very carefull were you stand or put your hands and check your ropes and the bottom of your bags when you pick them up. When I get a minute I will post the photo's. Take care people
SGD - 04/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

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