UKC

17m. Gossamer climbs the right side of the fin / arete up to, beside, and over the hole (picture window) in the rock. The start is a bit of an awkward (yet easy) move up to a block and the start of the fin. As the ground drops off beneath the climb, it is wise to protect the first moves with a stopper (#10 BD?) or cam.

Once on the block, layback the fin, and start moving up clipping the bolts. With each move, the angle of the fin lessens and makes things just a bit easier. Once at the apex of the rock, you'll find 2 'quick clip' type anchors - slip the rope in & get lowered to the ground. Because of the nature of the route, it needs to be seconded to be cleaned, and rigging a TR wouldn't really work.

The climb is rated 5.7 and the moves are 5.7, but has a certain intimidation factor. A fall for the leader OR second could get a bit messy. As with so many climbs in the Black Hills, this isn't sport climbing - it is bolt protected climbing.

(Source: Mountain Project)

Pianna, Skinner, McMann, Whistler 1989.

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