UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is in Range West, an Army live-firing range. Briefed climbers (with a valid permit) can access the crag year round when the range is not live (all weekends & on Bank Holidays plus some weekdays). Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed. The eastern end of the platform gets wet VERY QUICKLY once the tides is in, but the left-hand section is non-tidal. Cautionary note; This platform can become a very serious place to belay if the sea gets up.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting restriction (1st March - 1st August) includes King Prawn to Luck of the Devil inclusive. Note: The abseil hole may be used to access non-restricted climbs only but please do not loiter in the area of the hole as this will prevent birds from accessing their nest site and feeding chicks.

45m, 2 pitches. Update August 2021: Route is believed to have been affected by recent rockfall. Take care.

FA. P.Donnithorne, B.Brewer 15/Sep/2012.

Ticklists

The Best of Pembroke , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

User Date Notes
Longsufferingropeholder 6 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: This does not look like the picture in the book
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This does not look like the picture in the book
Oscar Popels 1 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: As mentioned above, a huge pillar has collapsed. Many tons of rock gone from this face.
βeta?
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βeta: As mentioned above, a huge pillar has collapsed. Many tons of rock gone from this face.
LRob 18 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Either a terrible route or a terrible description. I find it hard to justify the 3 stars on this route. It has a poor description in the cc book. Couldn't find the 'niche' so followed what is clearly a chimney. Second pitch is puzzling and poorly protected if you follow the topo. On the whole A disappointment and would recommend doing the other E3's here first. The 2 star routes are way better than this one.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Either a terrible route or a terrible description. I find it hard to justify the 3 stars on this route. It has a poor description in the cc book. Couldn't find the 'niche' so followed what is clearly a chimney. Second pitch is puzzling and poorly protected if you follow the topo. On the whole A disappointment and would recommend doing the other E3's here first. The 2 star routes are way better than this one.

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Route of Interest
General Sherman

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Flimston and Perimeter Bays)

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