3464m. Grade varies depending on conditions - any update to the Alpine grade welcome.
This route ascends to the summit from the Abbot Pass hut, which these days is best approached from the west (Lake O'Hara) side. The "Deathtrap" route up to the hut from the Lake Louise side is now overshadowed by dangerous seracs.
From the hut head approx WNW up the slope above, passing any difficulties on the right. A south-north ridge then leads to the summit with a more difficult section of climbing at a feature called "The Sickle".


Fred Beckey's 100 Favourite North American Climbs


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