300m, 6 pitches.
Climb the normal route via Bunzaburo Ridge until a shoulder that's level with a chimney approx 80m to the left - this is the start of the route (piton anchor at the base of the chimney).
Pitch 1 climbs the chimney with a tricky exit (IV-), then turns right on scrambly ground to the right of the arete and leads to a rock step. Pitch 2 gets back on the arete via a step. Pitch 3 is another step start, then a 70m snow slope that can be simul-climbed. Pitch 4 (crux) has an awkward exposed-feeling step at the start (III+) to the right of the belay, and a fairly challenging step at the end. Pitch 5 easily climbs the arete to a wide-ish chimney. Pitch 6 climbs the chimney and exits onto the summit trail.
Belays are bolts/pitons/in-situ tat. Piton anchors are in place along the route - 2 or 3 120cm slings and a rack of alpine draws should suffice.
Solid mixed climbing with good axe placements and holds.
Pitch 1 climbs the chimney with a tricky exit (IV-), then turns right on scrambly ground to the right of the arete and leads to a rock step. Pitch 2 gets back on the arete via a step. Pitch 3 is another step start, then a 70m snow slope that can be simul-climbed. Pitch 4 (crux) has an awkward exposed-feeling step at the start (III+) to the right of the belay, and a fairly challenging step at the end. Pitch 5 easily climbs the arete to a wide-ish chimney. Pitch 6 climbs the chimney and exits onto the summit trail.
Belays are bolts/pitons/in-situ tat. Piton anchors are in place along the route - 2 or 3 120cm slings and a rack of alpine draws should suffice.
Solid mixed climbing with good axe placements and holds.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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