Climbs 14
Rocktype Granite
Faces all
Crag features
Single pitch granite sea cliff climbing located at the very end of Picts Ness (Grid ref HU 2970 6389) 30 mins walk from the parking for Muckle Roe lighthouse walk at Little-ayre (HU 3221 6291). See pages 105-109 of Shetland Climbing though note the location on the map is a little to far south in the guide. Actual location is right on the North most tip of Picts Ness as the Grid ref above.
The partially sheltered, and partially tidal East facing Walls of Troll contain a number of slabby routes on black and slightly friable granite. Approach is by abseil. Max height 35m
The West facing Sea Walls are on immaculate wave washed (and exposed) granite, and are highly recommended. These are partially tidal and require calam seas.
There is one further recorded line on the South East corner of Picts Ness. Also Tidal.
Theres is tonnes of unclimbed rock nearby and no doubt plenty of potential for new routing, though much of the rock is loose and friable and not recommended.
Approach notes
The guidebook suggests an approach from Narwood heading North west for 2.5km, then contoring West for 1km past Rusness Knoes.
Probably an easier approach is to follow the path along the coast towards the lighthouse, then trods past Gilsa water and on the the ness.
Once on the ness scramble downwards towards the northern tip. Walls of Troll is on the right, accessed by a nasty scramble (or jump) over a void, then an an awkward downclimb to the end of the ness where an abseil rope can be set up.
Sea walls is accessed past the same void, but then by scrambling down ledges leftwards to the base of the west face.
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Climbs at this crag
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