At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
Altitude 514m a.s.l
Sam on the initial crux roof © Si Witcher
Inland from the throbbing metropolis of Murcia you enter real spaghetti-western territory, scattered amongst the badlands are some interesting hills and at least one decent crag. Mula has two main sectors, but plenty of other bits of rock in the area appear to have been developed too. La Presa is the section by the dam, with 30 routes across the grades on good rock. Sector Ferrari overlooks the motorway and has almost 60 routes including many steep test-pieces. Most people will be able to fill a day or two here.
Sector Abuelo is a newly developed sector (not in the Rockfax guide) further along the escarpment overlooking the Murcia to Caravaca dual carriageway from Sector Ferrari. The left-hand section has superb jug pulling on conglomerate pockets. An exceptionally good venue which has proved to be one of the most popular in the Murcia area. Routes graded F2 are not F2 but are new routes whose grades are not known.
The crags face south and make great winter venues - summers here would be hotter that hell. The cliffs are sheltered, take very little drainage and dry rapidly.
There is a good quality steep new crag that is in the shade in the afternoon. Development is still taking place (April 2017). It is at the side of the lake formed by the dam. Park on the dam wall and go down the steps to the base of the first routes (1 min). There are many more new harder routes further right than those listed here. Go on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon and ask the locals for details. The topo that is being written was photographed. Check the crag photos
The small town of Mula is 30km west of Murcia, reached via the C415 which branches west off the E7/A15. Follow this for 21km and exit at Junction 20 - Mula Centro. Go round the roundabout and under the motorway. At the next roundabout take the first available right (immediately after the no entry signs for the motorway slip road - care needed) signed 'Embalsa la Cierva' and 'Ecopark'. Drive up here for 2.3km until just past the solar array.
Sector La Presa - turn left and drive down steeply and round to a choice of parking spots, on the left ('Zona recreative') under the crag (can be boggy) or above the cliff, by the dam.
Sector La Presa - Lakeside - Continue along the tarmac past the dirt road turning for Ferrari and after about a km you pass the dam buildings and drive onto the dam wall itself. Park at the far end and go down the steps on the right to the waterside and the base of the first route.
Sector Ferrari - continue along the road for another 0.9km and turn right. Drive under the motorway and follow the rough cobbly road as it swings left then rises round some bends and up onto the plateau. There is parking on the left by a shady tree 2.8km after passing under the motorway. A good track leads to the cliff-top 100m away.
No guides found for this crag
|Rockfax topo looks dodgy around Wau ... Elisa. Wau is clearly identifiable, but then on the rock there's only one more bolt line before the 7a, whereas the guide has two 6bs.
Also, Nirvana doesn't seem to be bolted; presumably it's a trad route on threads.|
will_benfold - 04/Jan/17
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