90m, 2 pitches.
Climbs a series of steps, frozen turf and crack systems. Start on the rock buttress just right of new kids on the block.
1. A bold start up the buttress face leads to good gear, trending left then back right towards a spike. Follow this direct until you reach a move back left to the top of a block and a final crack which leads to the top of the buttress.
2. Cross to the left end of the snow slope towards the 'two fins' rock feature you can see from the belay. From the top of a block, tackle the steep crack ( well protected - crux ) on some good hooks and gear. Continue following these crack systems to the top through the 'two fin' feature and beyond, keeping a direct line.
Going left or right of the crack systems puts the grade down to IV. Better to be split into 3 pitches to minimize rope drag on second pitch.
1. A bold start up the buttress face leads to good gear, trending left then back right towards a spike. Follow this direct until you reach a move back left to the top of a block and a final crack which leads to the top of the buttress.
2. Cross to the left end of the snow slope towards the 'two fins' rock feature you can see from the belay. From the top of a block, tackle the steep crack ( well protected - crux ) on some good hooks and gear. Continue following these crack systems to the top through the 'two fin' feature and beyond, keeping a direct line.
Going left or right of the crack systems puts the grade down to IV. Better to be split into 3 pitches to minimize rope drag on second pitch.
William Windsor , Coralie Windsor 05/Jan/2025.
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Route of Interest
Two-Step Corner
Grade: V 5 ***
(Ben Nevis)