UKC

70m, 2 pitches. On the crag left of Gendarme Buttress and below and left of the other route here, Mistaken Identity (SMC 2017). Start below a large snow slope and turf at the right side of this part of the cliff. A technical and poorly protected first pitch gives way to enjoyable steep climbing on the second, frozen turf is essential.
1. 45m Climb the initial slope easily, aiming for a right facing corner ramp. Climb this with increasing difficulty and poor gear over several small steps and ledges until forced right to a large and welcome ledge. Move right again and climb a steep step to a left slanting flake crack with some welcome protection and up this to a good ledge and belay.
2. 25m Step right from the belay and climb up onto a higher ledge with difficulty to reach a wide left leaning crack, move up this on good chockstones to reach easier ground which leads to the top of the buttress.

Nathan Adam, Suzana El Massri 23/Feb/2020.

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Route of Interest
Gemini Direct Finish

Grade: VI 6 ***
(Ben Nevis)

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