Rockfax Description
The route of Cara Est which is about UK HVS. The crux pitch is short and sharp but it is only three moves and protected by a bolt so it is possible to aid through this. The rest of the climbing is much more steady. Start to the left of a left-facing corner below a crack with Y-spilt about 35m up.
1) 4a, 45m. Climb the crack and over the Y-spilt then step right onto a ledge. The crux is stepping down of this initial ledge onto the belay ledge.
2) 5a, 35m. Move right along the ledge and then head up the slab to the left of the left-facing corner. The corner does offer gear but the holds are polished and it is easier climbing to its side. Clip a peg just below steep move into a chimney to reach a peg and thread belay.
3) 4b, 30m. Bridge up the initial chimney - unprotectable and scary at the top. After this the climbing up the gully eases until you reach a good belay on the right above some blocks.
4) 5b, 40m. Clip a thread straight above the belay and gain a niche above then arrange better protection. Swing left into the left-facing groove and climb this to a respite. Head straight over a steep section. Then a peg or thread leads you on to a more run-out slab that leads to a ledge on the right. The belay is hard to see from below but is a thread and peg in a small crack.
5) 4b, 30m. Traverse right to another left-facing groove and climb this. Move right around the rib before it gets too hard - peg. Carry on up to a belay on the start of a rising terrace.
6) 3c, 60m. Move up and left following the easiest line to reach a bay below a steepening. Carry on leftwards to find a belay below the groove system.
7) 4c, 30m. Climb up to gain the groove and move right to a more distinct crack that leads up to another groove. At the top of this, head left and down slightly to a belay below the left-hand end of a long overhang.
8) 4c, 25m. Move up to just below the long roof and traverse below it to the base of the impending corner and a peg belay.
9) 5c, 25m. Climb the steep corner and clip a poor thread before reaching a good bolt. Strenuous and technical climbing leads past the bolt. Good wires above keep you going to easier ground. Continue up the groove to where a hole leads through to a view down onto the south face and ease yourself through to a bolt belay.
10) 4a, 45m. Head up the prominent rib - the rock is more broken here and care is needed around loose rock. Pass a couple of pegs and the climbing ends at a large block belay. Unrope and solo the ridge to the true summit before starting the descent. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Nice route, not sustained. Undemanding in any sense. Gear on descent was old but may have been replaced now?


Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!)


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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Elixir para calvos

Grade: 5c ***
(Pena de Fresnidiello)

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