Rockfax Description
One of the most coveted routes in this book - long and historically important as the first route to breach the impressive Cara Oeste - it is Spain's Nose of El Cap. Start down and right of the large tower (La Lastra) by a large boulder resting against the base of the wall.
1) 6c, 35m. Move left and climb up to some fixed gear. The well polished crux is passing these over the bulge low down. Move back left to the belay at the right-hand side of the base of the tower.
2) 6a, 20m. Climb the right-trending corner to a belay on the right.
3) 6c, 45m. Climb the corner. The fixed gear at half height marks the well polished crux.
4) 6a, 30m. Climb the corner chimney to where it starts to kick back left.
5) 4b, 25m. Take the flakeline up and left to the top of the La Lastra tower.
6) 6a, 18m. A short pitch that leads up to the start of a diagonal crack (La Cicatriz).
7) 5b, 50m. A staggeringly good pitch on good jugs leading up and right in a superb position.
8) 5b, 30m. Carry on in a similar line to gain the large terrace.
9) 4b, 25m. Head left up the terrace, past a tricky move and traverse out left, to a belay round a rib. This is the start of the photogenic grand traverse.
10) 6a, 25m. Descend slightly into the groove and make your way across the slab. This is 'La Cornisa del Entreacto'. It was originally climb by threading the rope through a large ring and untying and re-tying the rope!
11) 5b, 30m. Abseil a short way down avoiding the steeper area and then pendulum left to a peg and carry on along the ledge system making a few heart in mouth moves before you can walk to the belay.
12) 4b, 40m. Walk left and gain the first large corner system. This is the 'Gran Deirdro'.
13) 4b, 45m. Carry on up the Gran Deirdro to another belay.
14) 4b, 20m. Go up and left to the top of the Gran Deirdro by a tower.
15) 40m. Descend easily to good rock shelf - the 'Plaza de Rocasolano'.
16) 5c, 30m. Go up and left a stepped groove to reach the base of a corner.
17) 4b, 30m. Climb the corner to the shoulder.
18) 4b, 35m. Climb up the crest to reach the base of a pocketed slab.
19) 5b, 35m. Climb the pocketed slab to below a short steep section.
20) 5b, 35m. Savour the exposure as you climb the last steep section and gain the edge of the buttress. Belay at the start of the summit ridge and scramble up to the top. © Rockfax


Parois-de-legende , Picos , Euro Alpine Rock , Greatest E2s in Europe (or thereabouts) , 100 Spanish multi-pitch classics


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