Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of Gold Block under a black sheet (euphemism for a waterfall after heavy rain). Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab: climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break above (gear) take big holds and then smaller ones boldly to the left-most diagonal crack. Follow the crack (gear again) to the big grass ledge under Elastic Retreat.
M Crocker, J Harwood 05/Apr/2008.
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Route of Interest
Thumbsucker
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Treherbert Quarrry (Rhondda Pillar))