UKC

65m, 2 pitches. Climbs the middle of the right wall of Creag Ruadh via the prominent flake feature at half height. Start in the boulders at the base of the cliff below a left curving crack, a few meters right of the pedestal feature that leads to the other routes.

1. 30m 6a Climb the left facing groove, via an obvious protruding ledge to a roof. Pull through the roof to gain the start of the left curving crack. Follow the crack, initially on its right and then its left to a rest before a bulging section. Climb through the bulge (crux) and follow the crack to its end at an orange roof. Traverse a few meters right to arrange a hanging belay (medium size cams useful) in a diagonal crack below the prominent flake feature.
2. 35m 5c Climb the flake feature above, initially on the orange right wall (gear). At its top, move right into a left slanting crack that leads up to the base of another flake crack. Follow the flake crack rightwards to a niche created by a junction of cracks. From the niche take the left slanting crack back into the centre of the wall and finish directly up to the apex of the headwall via a distinct line of protruding holds.

Peter Herd & Rory Brown 13/Jun/2025.

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One Small Step

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Neave Island)

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