UKC

Climbs 157
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces E

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Jeremy Wilson on Kate (6b+) at Neddyfield Main Cliff © Mark Glaister

Crag features

One of the most reliable destinations for climbing on Portland, Neddyfields is a fast drying and sheltered crag with plenty of interesting routes to keep most climbers operating in the 5s and 6s happy. The centre of the cliff is its highest section and has lots of long and pumpy pitches whilst the wings gradually reduce in height and provide easier lines on the right and harder and more fingery exercises on the left. If it gets too busy Godnor North and The Nook are only a stroll away and have climbs of a similar nature and grade span. It is worth bearing in mind that the easier lines can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The long low wall passed on the approach has lots of excellent vertical bouldering.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for this crag lie on the main road between Easton and Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (2-3 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park. From the limited parking spot, walk 200m down the coastpath to where a long low bouldering wall appears on the right (2 mins from the road). The Neddyfields Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Opposite the far end of the bouldering wall, use a good steep path which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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Climbs at this crag

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