UKC

Climbs 157
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces E

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Jeremy Wilson on Kate (6b+) at Neddyfield Main Cliff © Mark Glaister

Crag features

One of the most reliable destinations for climbing on Portland, Neddyfields is a fast drying and sheltered crag with plenty of interesting routes to keep most climbers operating in the 5s and 6s happy. The centre of the cliff is its highest section and has lots of long and pumpy pitches whilst the wings gradually reduce in height and provide easier lines on the right and harder and more fingery exercises on the left. If it gets too busy Godnor North and The Nook are only a stroll away and have climbs of a similar nature and grade span. It is worth bearing in mind that the easier lines can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The long low wall passed on the approach has lots of excellent vertical bouldering.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for this crag lie on the main road between Easton and Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (2-3 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park. From the limited parking spot, walk 200m down the coastpath to where a long low bouldering wall appears on the right (2 mins from the road). The Neddyfields Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Opposite the far end of the bouldering wall, use a good steep path which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.

The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.

More Guidebooks:
Out of print:
Dorset (2012)
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
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