Altitude 1m a.s.l
Jeremy Wilson on Kate (6b+) at Neddyfield Main Cliff © Mark Glaister
One of the most reliable destinations for climbing on Portland, Neddyfields is a fast drying and sheltered crag with plenty of interesting routes to keep most climbers operating in the 5s and 6s happy. The centre of the cliff is its highest section and has lots of long and pumpy pitches whilst the wings gradually reduce in height and provide easier lines on the right and harder and more fingery exercises on the left. If it gets too busy Godnor North and The Nook are only a stroll away and have climbs of a similar nature and grade span. It is worth bearing in mind that the easier lines can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The long low wall passed on the approach has lots of excellent vertical bouldering.
The two main parking areas for this crag lie on the main road between Easton and Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (2-3 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park. From the limited parking spot, walk 200m down the coastpath to where a long low bouldering wall appears on the right (2 mins from the road). The Neddyfields Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Opposite the far end of the bouldering wall, use a good steep path which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base.
Portland, by it's nature, is geologically active and historically cliff collapses have happened during anytime of the year. Rockfalls and buttress collapse can occur with little warning and at irregular intervals.
A large crack along the top of the main cliff has been opening up over the last 10 years or so. With this evidence of movement, it would seem likely that a collapse or major rock fall may occor in the near future.
It is advised that the section of cliff between the routes 'Damn These Electric Sex Pants' and 'Jungle VIP' (inclusive), are avoided.
CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK! Hanging around under this section is not recommended either.
Signs have been placed either side of this section.
from 20/02/2023Updated by UKC: 21st February
|There are no comments from visitors to this crag.|
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Marti999