UKC

Climbs 43
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

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Neilston Quarry © Gibson

Crag features

Bolts on routes : bolts have appeared at the top of some routes. These have now been removed and reported to mountaineering Scotland.  No bolts on trad crags, including Neilston. 07.04.21

An OK wee crag on summer's evening for bouldering, top roping or leading. Willie's Route (S) is good but a tad bold at the top for those new to leading. Punk Rock (HVS 5a) is a good technical route taking a steep pillar past an in- situ engineering nut. Fornication (VS) has a fair bit of loose rock so beware. Strawberry Crack is good but short. ['God of Stretheyre' 3/05]

A topo for the crag is available at www.lomondmc.com/home/neilston-quarry/

Warning - Loose rock at top of Punk Rock - large pieces fell 01/06/20

Approach notes

Take the M8 heading to Kilmarnock, come off at J22 and follow the road to Barrhead and then into Neilston. Follow the back road out of Neilston heading away from Glasgow; you will see the pad on your left hand side. Avoid parking in the entrance road to the industrial unit as they need the access to be clear.

Update this Crag
Last updated on 08/Apr/2021

Guidebooks

Lowland Outcrops (2005)

Out of print:
Update Guidebooks
Topo here http://www.lomondmc.com/home/neilston-quarry/
stug808 - 13/Aug/19
We went here just last week,, forgot to pick up our shoes so not too much climbing was done but we did some scrambling and set up some anchors. Pretty solid and fun abseiling, looking forward to going with shoes next time. 50m rope is needed though. Good placed for protection placements, one full set of nuts would probably do to be honest but I always like to have spares.
Alexgj - 25/Apr/14
photo of rockfall now uploaded to gallery for this crag
Brownie - 02/Apr/13
Large block fallen off line of Grassy Crack on quarry floor
Brownie - 01/Apr/13
Neilston Quarry is excellent for beginners, i take my 10 and 7 year old boys here who dont face much difficulty, there is harder climbs, usually top or bottom roped, leading can be difficult due to limited protection
kevinmuirhead - 14/Feb/12
Nice topo @ http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Neilston_Quarry
mountainmachine - 06/Jun/10
I learned to lead here, and moved to Sheffield because of it! Remains a great spot for beginners, and those with a good eye will find climbing up to 6c.
Kinley - 26/Jun/05
You can get a train direct to Neilston from Glasgow Central (twice an hour). Ask for directions to "the pad" but walk 100m beyond the sign and entrance for the pad's country walk to reach the crag. Leading is tricky due to little protection lower down and bouldering requires a creative approach. Some small boulder problems to the high right and low left of the crag. Local shop about 10 mins walk (on the road to the quarry). Sunny from about 2 onwards (if it's not raining that is)
Weebl - 25/May/05
quite a broken quarry with a lot of grassy areas. if it was about 6 times the size the gullys would make great winter routes - there is a lot of grass! the lower grade climbing is easy but i didnt think the protection was that great. a lot of the cracks were full of turf. good for beginners - i did my first leads here. a couple of stakes at the top provide quick belays. the ground below the crag gets waterlogged.
alrobertson - 26/Apr/04
nice photos get leading
hty - 15/Aug/03
I've been to Neilston Quarry once before, it is ideal for beginers as there are some easy routes which are not high and can be top roped. However, experienced climbers should not expect a big day out climbing here as there is not much of a challenge here & the routes are limited, although it is good for training & it is in a nice enclosed space!
Jay Jay - 23/Jan/03
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