Climbs 209
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Hazel Findlay on Yuckan II, E7 6b © marcus wootton photography

Crag features

A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.

There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

There is a new online bouldering guide at

Approach notes

Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. The guidebook description says to approach via the footpath opposite The Old Three Pigeons pub. This is fine, but there is no longer any parking there. A good approach is from the parking about 1/2 a mile(ish) up the lane directly opposite the pub. Drive past the school and the parking is about 200yds on your right.

No Access Issues

Concern has been raised over the amount of chalk on the overhanging bouldering wall right of Kynaston's Cave - please brush-off any excess chalk when you have finished.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels traditionally nest in an obvious porthole on the left-hand side of the crag. If they are present, look out for Shropshire County Council signs and avoid routes in this area.

Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
Lukeb00sh - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring ar�te and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the �head-point�, I just can�t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain�s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

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