Climbs 150
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 135m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Alec, on sighting with a borrowed rack and boulder bucket for chalk © Allan Evans

Crag features

New Mills Tor is a well-hidden crag, set in a deep gloomy gorge right bang in the centre of New Mills. The cliff is witheringly steep, surprisingly tall for grit and composed of a rather soft and sandy gritstone, not the well-weathered stone you might be used to. These various factors all add up to make the routes here intimidating and pumpy propositions. Although some of the routes are esoteric, the best of the climbs here are very good and the oddness of the setting adds to the whole experience of the place - if you are passing by, call in and sample the unique experience that is New Mills Tor.

The crag is steep enough to stay dry in light rain and the tree canopy in the summer adds to the shelter. The steepest part of the cliff is right under the viaduct, and this stays dry even in monsoon conditions. The walls do face south, so can catch the sun, but they are also shaded by the tree cover and bridge pillars.

IMPORTANT NOTE: the trees at the top of 'Original Route' and 'Alcove Crack' have recently been cut down. It is probably possible to use the tree stumps above Alcove Crack to belay (for now) but the tree at the top of Original Route does not look usuable for an abseil. This will create significant issues for finishing the route as topping out is not really an option.

Approach notes

There are various quiet streets and pay and display parking options in New Mills. From behind the bus turning circle, a steep path leads down to the left-hand end of the cliff.

Please don't park at the crag.



No Access Issues

No major access problems. Climbing is permitted on the main crag downstream of the chimney right of Bionics Wall etc. - not the walls directly above the footpath around the corner.

The tree at the top of Viaduct wall has now been cut down; There is still a (small) tree above transformation and fixed gear at the top of bionics wall; Although now a little suspect.
huh - 19/Apr/22
There seems to be a worsening situation of lazy boulderers not cleaning their chalk, and worse, chalk tick marks off the problems here. Particularly Grim Reaper Traverse. Please brush them at the end of your session and have some consideration for other climbers.
mrphilipoldham - 11/Jun/20
Some lower off's have appeared on bionics wall.
angus - 21/Nov/14
Could someone give me an idea of where the line 'Worthy of some strain E3/6b goes? Is it left or right of Grim Reaper?
MischaHY - 11/Nov/13
On the viaduct pillar? They are in the BMC 'Over The Moors Guidebook' and listed here on UKC under the 'Viaduct Pillar' and 'Riverside Pillar' headings. I have just updated the climbs according to the guidebook.
David Kirsfelds - 15/Jul/13
Great to see so many climbers out on the viaduct and also bouldering/climbing the rock face - for those that don't know the town there are several pubs, cafes, shops and a Heritage Centre up the steps to the side of the rock face, they are dog, cycle and climber friendly - thanks.
visitnewmills - 31/Mar/13
Hi, What's the route to the right of Evolution or Outrage?
rustaldo - 17/Nov/12
I'm away until the end of the month, but will try and update the rest of the climbs when I get back.
David Kirsfelds - 04/Aug/12
10 shiny new well bolted lines on the bridge parapet should entice a few more down here. As part of the Torrs Riverside Park, the place is now being looked after by a combination of the town council and the local climbing club - The Mynydd.
Normclimber - 03/Sep/11
There are some good routes here, but beware of loose rock and, er, hypodermic needles. Yes, someone dislodged one of these from the top of a route today and it missed his belayer by a few feet.
PeteH - 01/May/10
the flake mid way up the orgional route is dangerously loose!
hiu068 - 22/Dec/07
Might be worth knowing how to abseil before attending this crag! All in all its a nice little place, dry mostly when everywhere else is wet, just keep an eye on the baggage! Im convinced the older folk where eyeing up my trainers at the bottom of the climb! However its a nice place, gear is pretty sparce at the top. Give it a go!
Jimbo MSider - 23/Feb/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer huh

Loading Notifications...