New Mills Tor is a well-hidden crag, set in a deep gloomy gorge right bang in the centre of New Mills. The cliff is witheringly steep, surprisingly tall for grit and composed of a rather soft and sandy gritstone, not the well-weathered stone you might be used to. These various factors all add up to make the routes here intimidating and pumpy propositions. Although some of the routes are esoteric, the best of the climbs here are very good and the oddness of the setting adds to the whole experience of the place - if you are passing by, call in and sample the unique experience that is New Mills Tor.
The crag is steep enough to stay dry in light rain and the tree canopy in the summer adds to the shelter. The steepest part of the cliff is right under the viaduct, and this stays dry even in monsoon conditions. The walls do face south, so can catch the sun, but they are also shaded by the tree cover and bridge pillars.
IMPORTANT NOTE: the trees at the top of 'Original Route' and 'Alcove Crack' have recently been cut down. It is probably possible to use the tree stumps above Alcove Crack to belay (for now) but the tree at the top of Original Route does not look usuable for an abseil. This will create significant issues for finishing the route as topping out is not really an option.
There are various quiet streets and pay and display parking options in New Mills. From behind the bus turning circle, a steep path leads down to the left-hand end of the cliff.
Please don't park at the crag.