Altitude 135m a.s.l
New Mills Torrs, view from the Riverside Pillar. © stoo2k
New Mills Tor is a well-hidden crag, set in a deep gloomy gorge right bang in the centre of New Mills. The cliff is witheringly steep, surprisingly tall for grit and composed of a rather soft and sandy gritstone, not the well-weathered stone you might be used to. These various factors all add up to make the routes here intimidating and pumpy propositions. Although some of the routes are esoteric, the best of the climbs here are very good and the oddness of the setting adds to the whole experience of the place - if you are passing by, call in and sample the unique experience that is New Mills Tor.
The crag is steep enough to stay dry in light rain and the tree canopy in the summer adds to the shelter. The steepest part of the cliff is right under the viaduct, and this stays dry even in monsoon conditions. The walls do face south, so can catch the sun, but they are also shaded by the tree cover and bridge pillars.
There are various quiet streets and pay and display parking options in New Mills. From behind the bus turning circle, a steep path leads down to the left-hand end of the cliff.
Please don't park at the crag.
The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
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