*** UPDATE - THIS CLIMB NO LONGER EXISTS AS HAS FALLEN DOWN ***
This is the only climb in the small cave. It starts towards the back on the right wall. There are two starting placement in a horizontal crack.
A couple of moves right and then you're into the first transition to the left wall (behind you). Then move left on strenuous placement to a reverse grip in the ceiling gap (marked with scratches). Then transition back to the right wall and to the stein pull. From here transition back to the left wall (crux move) and continue to move left towards cave entrance. Finally get the high left placement outside of the cave and then to finish transition through the top of the cave entrance from left to right and finish on the right wall just outside the cave.
It's got a wide variety of moves and some of them aren't easy. Power is required.
This is the only climb in the small cave. It starts towards the back on the right wall. There are two starting placement in a horizontal crack.
A couple of moves right and then you're into the first transition to the left wall (behind you). Then move left on strenuous placement to a reverse grip in the ceiling gap (marked with scratches). Then transition back to the right wall and to the stein pull. From here transition back to the left wall (crux move) and continue to move left towards cave entrance. Finally get the high left placement outside of the cave and then to finish transition through the top of the cave entrance from left to right and finish on the right wall just outside the cave.
It's got a wide variety of moves and some of them aren't easy. Power is required.
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Route of Interest
King-Kong-Schlong-a-Dong
Grade: M8 ***
(Newhaven)