Climbs 82
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 2m a.s.l
Faces N
Aerial view of Newton Point crag © John Haxon
The base of the crag sits on the high water mark so it’s advisable to climb around low tide. Whenever visiting the coast you should always check local tide times. Most of the rock is of good quality and surprisingly grippy, however a few small sections are brittle and holds can break. As the tide comes right up to the cliff, some of the boulders at the bottom can be very slippery and our team found a large tarpaulin to be very useful.
From either car park head through the gate at St Mary’s Church and along the road towards the National Trust office (old MOD buildings). Turn left off the road near its end and cross the field along the obvious track. At the point where this track meets the coast you’ll find yourself on top of the crag. There are scramble descents at both ends of the main crag.
We visited Black Kirk Rock on Newton Point over the weekend. It's a great spot on a hot day and we were in shade the whole time. We arrived shortly after high tide and there stuff that was fully dry even then. Several holds dramatically exploded when pulled on, resulting in the climber flying outwards away from the wall and the pads. Consequently I'd advise against a visit without pads, and ideally you'd want a spotter too. Otherwise the problems were good and just the right height for bouldering. Do expect inquisitive/concerned walkers to lead over the top to ask if you're okay. After climbing we went for a swim on Low Newton beach (to the south) and had a drink at The Ship Inn in the square, which has detailed maps of the area up on its walls. Sid Sherborne - 11/Jul/22 |
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Known locally as Black Kirk Rock. Sid Sherborne - 04/Jun/22 |
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