UKC

Climbs 50
Rocktype Diorites

Faces W

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Ross and Paul, Local Anaesthetic E2 5b, 1st Ascent, Nibon, Shetland © CLasHeras

Crag features

A line of beautifully situated sea cliffs up to 50m in height. Mostly single-pitch but some two-pitch. The rock is diorite, very rare in the UK, and this is its largest outcropping. Microgranite also occurs within it as a "net-vein complex". Whilst the dark grey diorite is generally sound, the red microgranite is rather loose. Passive protection can be difficult to arrange and a decent supply of SLCD's advised. Birds not a problem on the better parts of the crags. Much development currently taking place. Routes from Severe - E4. SMC guide now very much out of date. Local climbing club in process of gathering info for downloadable guide on website ("Climb Shetland").

It's worth noting that few of the climbs here have been done more than once and some sorting out of possible duplicate lines still needs to be done. At least one recorded route hasn't been located at all. Star-ratings are likewise somewhat haphazard, local climbers especially having been very niggardly in awarding them. Comments by the sporadic visitors from South suggests that many routes are much better than the lack of stars suggests.

Approach notes

20 minute walk south from the road end. Abseil needed for most routes but usually decent belay ledges. Monumental gales make visits inadvisable for most of Winter.

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Climbs at this crag

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