An old mountaineering-style route that links some difficult sections on a complex line. Best accomplished in dry weather as the rock becomes extremely slick in damp conditions. Start at a low-angled right-slanting ramp, 5m left of a spring at the base of the cliff.
1) 10m. Follow the slabby ramp to a belay just before it fades.
2) 4a, 17m. Move right and up until a tricky traverse back left and slightly down gains a grass niche. Step left again to below a hard looking corner. Do not go up this, but climb a short steep section of cracks on the right, easily identified by a small jutting flake. Belay on a good ledge.
3) 4a, 15m. Climb a chimney with a big spike at its start. Follow the chimney (past a possible stance on the right) to a steep exit on jams. Belay on a large ledge.
4) 4a, 14m. On the right is a series of three corners separated by ledges. Follow these to a large ledge and belays. The second corner is poorly protected while the final one is hardest but with good protection.
5) 40m. Care required with loose rock on this pitch. Move right and up to a prominent spike. Work up and left to easier ground. Scrambling up and then left gains the top of the cliff. © Rockfax
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