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Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax.

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UKClimbing Team

45m, 2 pitches. P1, 5b, 25m – Start at a ledge at the base of the north west arete (accessed by boat at high tide). Climb up and slightly right on good rock to a recess. Pull through a blocky overhang to a large pale coloured break, wriggle leftward and surmount a further step to belay on small nuts at the base of the green steps.

P2, 5b, 20m - Climb up the blocky staircase before making bold and committing moves up the face left of a thin groove to a ledge. Finish up the short crack.

Bring small/micro gear for P2.

Kevin Woods and David Macmorris 23/Jul/2016

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kevin Woods 29 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Could well be E3. The mid-belay isn't great, bring micro wires and think carefully. This leads straight into P2 which is not that well protected either. A good route, but treat carefully. Looking back, it was one of my more worrying climbing experiences!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Could well be E3. The mid-belay isn't great, bring micro wires and think carefully. This leads straight into P2 which is not that well protected either. A good route, but treat carefully. Looking back, it was one of my more worrying climbing experiences!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
dmacmorris 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P2
Led P2
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
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Route of Interest

Old Head Route

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Tomb of the Eagles – Old Head)