Climbs 62
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 248m a.s.l
Faces W
Crag features
Norton Wood is a limestone crag which was cleaned and bolted in 2015/2016 but it still carries some loose stones and rock. Climbs may only have had one or two ascents before you so take care with holds, small stones and dust still lingering on the top of climbs.
Most of the climbs are in the mid to upper grades, not a place for beginners and the grades listed may contain some significant sandbags until multiple ascents have been done and a consensus is reached. Set high on an exposed ridge and deep in the forest the crag is almost always exposed to a good drying wind and the trees in leaf give good shade in the summer.
The rock is crumbly and will likely break off. The climbing is harder than originally graded. Take it all with a pinch of salt and sense of humour.
Because of the mix of climbing styles there are shown a mix of relevant grades: French Sport grades, British Trad Grades, Bouldering V grades.
The maximum height of the crag is only 12metres so a single 50m rope is more than sufficient.
BOLTS
There are no lower off chains at the top of any bolted Sport climbs. DO NOT use the single top bolts on any climb to lower off or top rope. ALL bolts are for protection only. There are more than plenty sturdy trees for good belays (take care not to damage them).
Approach notes
Parking @135metres Map ref: SO442822
Crag @ 275metres Map ref: SO445815
APPROACH
The quickest walk in takes around 15-20 minutes. If you can't appreciate and interesting hearty uphill forest walk its probably better you go elsewhere. Take your time and enjoy your surroundings. From the grass parking lay-by walk north along the lane to the black and white walled house (Norton's Oak). On the right side of the house follow a public footpath uphill to a path junction, bear right, the path levels out until a forked junction is reached. Take the left uphill track to a forest road. Turn right down the forest road for about 50metres to a huge oak tree on the left where a small path heads steeply up and rightwards across the forest hillside. When the path almost reaches the ridge at the top (ignore the main ridge footpath) take a small path right which heads (south) through the trees along the very edge of the ridge. Follow this gently downhill until a semi ivy covered rock face appears on the right, ignore this (False Quarry). Continue following the small path, soon a small holly bush appears growing from the start of the climbing crag (Holly Wall), continue on a little further and the Choparete buttress and descent comes into view down right. Well done
No Access Issues
Several public footpaths cross this woodland, one very close to the crag, but this does not give any climber permission to climb. At the time of bolting (2016) access was still under negotiation with the landowner. If challenged please respect all requests. This crag guide has been compiled merely as a record of ascents.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer David Bowler