Climbs 46
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 270m a.s.l
Faces W

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Alan Taylor making the first ascent of Hungry Heart [E2 5b], Oak Crag. © Tony Marr

Crag features

Better than it looks when you arrive, providing a nice days climbing entertainment. The bouldering is also first rate.

Might be an idea to check for belays as many relied on stakes.

Approach notes

See north East England Guide.

Park as for the SECOND set of Grouse butts crossing the road driving south from the lion inn (3.8km/2.4mi)

Restricted Access

The crags enjoy a fine aspect and North Buttress can provide a few hours of quality climbing. The routes are not long but there are a few excellent lines across the grades. In dry weather ledges and holds can become dusty and heathery topouts are an additional challenge.

Due to ground nesting birds the land owners have been granted a 5 year dog ban.

There are few reliable anchors and any stakes should be treat with caution.

Bracken can be an issue in summer including obscuring a number of holes and drops around the crags.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds



In an amazing setting over-looking farndale with exelent soloing on the clean north butress, esecially digimon and captain birdseye. I couldn't find a belay stake however about 10-15 metres back there is a massive crater with a boulder in the bottom if nesecary.
Sam Marks - 08/Dec/10
There is a stake next to a large rock (hidden in the bilberry bushes) on the North Buttress that can be used to protect Cote Crack etc. The stake in the centre can be used for Motley Crew and Pugwash, along with a firm stance.
BruceW - 03/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

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