UKC

130m, 5 pitches. This route is not starred in the Handren guide but it is AWESOME! Approach as for Black Orpheus but from the base of that route scramble up some vegetated weaknesses that head up and left. The route starts on a ledge below a single bolts. Pitch 1: CLimb up easier gorund up and left before mving right below a steep wall and in to a vegetated corner. Belay up and right from this corner on botls on a ledge. 5.6, 140'. Pitch 2: Thought provoking climbing leades up and left past a bolts and into a corner before moving right past another bolts and over a bulge. Climb up to a ledge. 10b CLassic, 120'. Pitch 3: Traverse right 30' feet to the anchor. 5.5. Pitch 4 Climb up the excellent corner above past 2 bolts. 11b, 60'. Pitch 5. CLimb up the right hand of the two corners above the belay until tricky strenuous jamming is required to pull over onto a right slanting ramp. Climb the ramp for 80 ' past four bolts. This pitch is not run out but you have to make the best of the gear placements as they appear. Abseil with 1 70m rope using leaver beaners on the bolts of pitch 5. The abseil from the bottom of pitch four will take you to the top of pitch 1.

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High 5.12a
Mid 5.12a
Low 5.12a
High 5.11d
Mid 5.11d
Low 5.11d
High 5.11c
Mid 5.11c
Low 5.11c
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Route of Interest
Time's Up

Grade: 5.11d ***
(Juniper Canyon)

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