50m.
Start on Sleepless Nights up the conglomerate pile. Out left on the wall (pegs)up then back right to ledges. Straight up the leaning wall, (pegs) swing left then up left into a powder groove with a big dirty crack (fixed wires and a big hex is useful). Flop right to finish. I’m guessing E3/E4 5c for someone better. Rope soloed the pile free,the rest was on aid.
Mad day. Quite scared in the top groove, someone over to the left was trying to pull my ab rope back up Mother Earth but I’d used the end of it to build my ground belay round a block for the lead rope. This spooked me as the ab rope is my way in but also an escape option if leading a route out goes wrong.
Topped out to find mystery man had re rigged the ab rope (badly)!!
Mounted my camera at the bottom as usual for pics which unfortunately turned itself off today after 2 minutes ?. Ended up getting some photos of the route when jugging back out on the lead rope praying that mystery man didn’t come back and try to re rig it whilst I was bouncing back up on it.
Mad day. Quite scared in the top groove, someone over to the left was trying to pull my ab rope back up Mother Earth but I’d used the end of it to build my ground belay round a block for the lead rope. This spooked me as the ab rope is my way in but also an escape option if leading a route out goes wrong.
Topped out to find mystery man had re rigged the ab rope (badly)!!
Mounted my camera at the bottom as usual for pics which unfortunately turned itself off today after 2 minutes ?. Ended up getting some photos of the route when jugging back out on the lead rope praying that mystery man didn’t come back and try to re rig it whilst I was bouncing back up on it.
Gavin Cytlau 05/Sep/2020.
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