UKC

130m, 5 pitches. The original line up the stack. Takes the landward face and is essentially a crack climb therefore large cams and hexentrics are useful as are 60m ropes for the descent.

Rustie Baillie, Christian Bonington and Dr Tom Patey 18/Jul/1966.

Ticklists

Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Hard Rock, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Summer Trip 2014, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Trad on every UK island, Caff's Cool E1s List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Crack apprenticeship - Highland North, High Quality Adventure routes, Big Routes, Ultimate Sea Stack, Pre-MIA Wishlist, EUMC - Must do climbs, Epic Rock Europe, Hard Rock 2020, The E1 UK Roadtrip, Hard Rock 2020, STAUMC Ticklist, Scottish Climbing Best 10 E1 list?, CovidDreams, Scottish Multipitch Seacliffs (S - E2), The Big Three, Hard Rock & Other Classics, UK 21, The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland, Summer 2021, Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5, Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy), Scottish Hard Rock 2020

Feedback

User Date Notes
scottie390 8 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Some size 6 dmm dragon cam definitely be helpful for after second Overhang (I didn't have any), about 4m below belay, good nuts out left of pitch, 3rd n 4th pitch are shit covered, fulmar infested ledges and generally unpleasant. Last pitch is VS 4c and beautiful. Good recent lsk with rope protector and insitu crab for abseil. Got off in 3,abseiled from top to the anchor 8m above the one for the start of the third (new ish blue tat), from there to the top of the second pitch, try and keep as far right (looking down) of as close to the left whilst abseiling to reach the chimney directly above the top of p2, if you miss this as it's not very obvious, like I did, keep your eyes peeled and step left round the arete to the top of p2 belay. From the top of p2 an abseil on double 60's will get you down, if its windy don't toss the ropes as there's potential for them to get stuck at the top of p1. Thuggish brutal Chimney tactics and dusting off sand experience will pay off big time.
βeta?
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βeta: Some size 6 dmm dragon cam definitely be helpful for after second Overhang (I didn't have any), about 4m below belay, good nuts out left of pitch, 3rd n 4th pitch are shit covered, fulmar infested ledges and generally unpleasant. Last pitch is VS 4c and beautiful. Good recent lsk with rope protector and insitu crab for abseil. Got off in 3,abseiled from top to the anchor 8m above the one for the start of the third (new ish blue tat), from there to the top of the second pitch, try and keep as far right (looking down) of as close to the left whilst abseiling to reach the chimney directly above the top of p2, if you miss this as it's not very obvious, like I did, keep your eyes peeled and step left round the arete to the top of p2 belay. From the top of p2 an abseil on double 60's will get you down, if its windy don't toss the ropes as there's potential for them to get stuck at the top of p1. Thuggish brutal Chimney tactics and dusting off sand experience will pay off big time.
Adamcsyou 26 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The people complaining that this isn't a classic must have a very narrow view of what makes a good route. This is an amazing adventure climb, the whole experience first seeing the old man on the ferry and then on the approach, carefully getting down the cliff (hiking pole very useful) and then of course the amazing stack itself. First pitch was grand, really just VD with a tiny bit of loose rock. Second pitch was definitely quite sandy but the rock was solid and the climbing really interesting - mostly just VS but the crux through the second overhang did feel like E1 5b. Crux is really nice to protect and a good safe move that you can take your time on. There's a stuck cam but I wouldn't trust it to hold a big fall, backed up with my own #3. Big cams (I had a single #3.5 and 4) are definitely handy for the 15m of climbing after the crux or you'll be very run out. 3rd and 4th pitch were fine but nothing special, very green but not wet after one day of no rain. 3rd was VD and 4th no more than S. Final crack was excellent as everyone says, nice secure moves up a crack on lovely clean rock with good protection, and an absolutely incredible top out! Try find the logbook on the top Abseil tat was hit and miss, lots of options but a good idea to at least bring a spare biner or two. The main gate on top of the 3rd or 4th pitch definitely didn't seem safe. Descended the whole thing with a single 60m rope, having left our 40m rope in place on the second pitch - amazing hanging abseil!! In summary, if you're wondering whether you should take a run at the old man, I'd say it's more important to have experience with multi pitch logistics, route finding and knowing whats safe and what's not. Technically, if you've climbed E1 at all before you can probably handle this one. Brilliant experience
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βeta: The people complaining that this isn't a classic must have a very narrow view of what makes a good route. This is an amazing adventure climb, the whole experience first seeing the old man on the ferry and then on the approach, carefully getting down the cliff (hiking pole very useful) and then of course the amazing stack itself. First pitch was grand, really just VD with a tiny bit of loose rock. Second pitch was definitely quite sandy but the rock was solid and the climbing really interesting - mostly just VS but the crux through the second overhang did feel like E1 5b. Crux is really nice to protect and a good safe move that you can take your time on. There's a stuck cam but I wouldn't trust it to hold a big fall, backed up with my own #3. Big cams (I had a single #3.5 and 4) are definitely handy for the 15m of climbing after the crux or you'll be very run out. 3rd and 4th pitch were fine but nothing special, very green but not wet after one day of no rain. 3rd was VD and 4th no more than S. Final crack was excellent as everyone says, nice secure moves up a crack on lovely clean rock with good protection, and an absolutely incredible top out! Try find the logbook on the top Abseil tat was hit and miss, lots of options but a good idea to at least bring a spare biner or two. The main gate on top of the 3rd or 4th pitch definitely didn't seem safe. Descended the whole thing with a single 60m rope, having left our 40m rope in place on the second pitch - amazing hanging abseil!! In summary, if you're wondering whether you should take a run at the old man, I'd say it's more important to have experience with multi pitch logistics, route finding and knowing whats safe and what's not. Technically, if you've climbed E1 at all before you can probably handle this one. Brilliant experience
jennyb 26 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Would recommend a walking pole to get down to the base of the climb!
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βeta: Would recommend a walking pole to get down to the base of the climb!
SOUTHERN GRAY 22 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route. 6hrs inc abseil.
βeta?
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βeta: Awesome route. 6hrs inc abseil.
j.anstee 21 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Ab Stn at the top has been tidied up and reinforced with good static rope and a rope protector. Makes for a good line of descent. Good job that man...
βeta?
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βeta: Ab Stn at the top has been tidied up and reinforced with good static rope and a rope protector. Makes for a good line of descent. Good job that man...
Matthew Davies 29 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned some old tat from the top, still a lot left. Most of the tat in place for the decent is in reasonable condition.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned some old tat from the top, still a lot left. Most of the tat in place for the decent is in reasonable condition.

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High E2
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Route of Interest

Malaise

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Deerness, Gearsan Walls)
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