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Climbs 29
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 314m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

If you've never been to Oldpits, you can rest assured that you outnumber those who have. This is disappointing as the crag is very good, despite its limited route count. For many years, no one knew about the crag save for a select band of local chuggers. The routes were talked about at The Crown or The Packhorse, but only once all outsiders had been ejected. It's long been seen as a local's birthright to be able to climb here in solitude and peace. Even with the advent of this guide, there won't be many takers for the routes here, but those who do come will feel rewarded.

The crag consists of mostly tough, steep and committing routes, in the mid extreme grades, with a smattering of easier routes. Pegs play their part at this crag, and they do get replaced from time to time. Feel free to do your bit and replace any dodgy looking bits of ironmongery. There is a boulder in the middle of the quarry, which has a few problems from 4b to 6a.

Approach notes

Park in the Bowden Bridge car park then continue up the road on foot for 600m. Go straight ahead through the gates and follow this road for a few hundred metres. When you get to the end of this, there;s a gate that gives access to a steep cobbled track. Follow this until it levels off. The track to the quarry can be found almost doubling back left on yourself. Probably 5 minutes to the quarry from here, over a fence or two.

There are reports that signs have appeared on the fence just before entering the quarry, saying that it is private land and you can't enter. This is nonsense - the quarry and the approach path are on CRoW land and therefore the public has unfettered access. The signs are unlawful, and the person who put them there probably knows that.  

Approach time: 20 mins from Bowden Bridge

No Access Issues

This crag is located on open access land which gives a lega right to access it for recreation incuding climbing. The landowner or occupier has recently installed no access signs and barbed wire over the stile into the quarry, as well as periodically asking climbers to leave. Access is a legal right here as the quarry falls within open access land, so we are working with the Peak District National Park Authority to see what can be done to rectify this situation.

We took a trip up there today to have a look around. There is quite significant rock fall and I'd say it's taken out Wristsnapper's Lament and Missing, Presumed Grey (routes). There are also some loose rocks sat on a newly formed ledge about three quarters way up where these routes were.... Access seemed to be over and barred wire fence, heading back from the top of the resviour wall along a faint path. Still well worth a visit, if only for the views. 
marktrik - 20/Dec/19
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