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Climbs 30
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2918m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

Mytika is the highest of the 52 peaks of Mount Olympus and one of the highest in Europe in terms of topographic prominence. Stefani is the more popular peak for alpine rock climbing activities. The routes are mostly equipped with bolts at the belays and some pitons in between. Trad protection (nuts, friends and slings) are mandatory.

You can stay on one of the two huts on the 'Plateau of the Muses' (SEO Giosos Apostolidis or Kakalos). The second one is the 'Climber's Nest' since the inkeeper, Michalis Styllas is a mounteneer with Everest-experience and always up for some good stories. Camping next to Kakalos is (at least used to be) tolerated, especially when the small hut is full. You can buy water and get warm food on both huts. From there, the climbing routes are good to reach.

Approach notes

Two popular approaches to Mytikas

1. The traverse from Skala which is a scramble in summer and considerably harder/more serious in wet or winter weather. There is around 60m descending down polished slabs with good holds followed by some traversing and a further 100m scrambling ascent. Mildly exposed and some loose rock but largely sound. A short fixed wire handrail exists on one of the most exposed sections and fixed bolts are available for abseiling or protecting nervous parties or a winter ascent.

2. Mytikas can be ascended directly from a steep gully to the northeast. Similar scrambling with some loose rock, helmets advised. Fixed protection available. 

A popular choice is to climb Skala and then Mytikas from Refuge A at 2050m, then descend the gully making a circular route, although it can equally be done in the opposite direction.

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