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The show cave owners have said they are happy for people to climb here, but are concerned about theft of the mineral for which that area is famous. They will challenge and call the police on anyone they suspect of stealing, and mentioned pretty hefty fines. They also stated that they periodically set cameras up there. So if you see any nice rocks on the floor while climbing there don’t be tempted to pocket them. Also, although when in the crag you’re nigh on invisible, except when topping out, you are likely to be heard from the show cave, (apparently noise travels well there), so needless to say, like all crags, best behaviour, and no speakers or shouting please.
In terms of existing problems, Windrush to the big pockets, go via the crystal rail into No Surprises which is followed to the ramp. Reverse the start of Peterloo then finish up Tianemen Square.
8a/+ is probably a better reflection of the difficulty.
Remus Knowles 04/Jun/2025.
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Speedway
Grade: f7C+ ***
(Roche Abbey)