82m, 3 pitches.
Follows the nose of Step Tier.
Aporoach - follow signposted path (Step
Buttress) leading up from Organ Pipes Track.
P1.32m Climb the crack (tricky at top) for 10 m to reach obvious rh traverse.
After traverse continue up crack system to in situ belay.
P2.43m .Follow the crack system past an old peg,
move right further up to avoid the awkward looking chimney .Belay at a good ledge just below final chimney pitch.
P3.7m. Up chimney behind the pillar, thrutchy, but well protected by big cams,.
Belay at rap Station.
Two 40m raps get you to safely down.(second rap station is double bolted on a sloping ledge).
Aporoach - follow signposted path (Step
Buttress) leading up from Organ Pipes Track.
P1.32m Climb the crack (tricky at top) for 10 m to reach obvious rh traverse.
After traverse continue up crack system to in situ belay.
P2.43m .Follow the crack system past an old peg,
move right further up to avoid the awkward looking chimney .Belay at a good ledge just below final chimney pitch.
P3.7m. Up chimney behind the pillar, thrutchy, but well protected by big cams,.
Belay at rap Station.
Two 40m raps get you to safely down.(second rap station is double bolted on a sloping ledge).
Mike Douglas/Ray Williams Nov/1966.
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Route of Interest
Chancellor Direct
Grade: 17 ***
(Organ Pipes)