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242m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic, the most popular climb on the cliff and with good reason. Start just right of the fall-line from the groove on the right-hand side of the pillar at a well-trodden area.
1) 4+, 50m. Wander up easy slabs to the 1st bolt then climb the groove via the odd tricky move past a stance moving over left to another on the tip of the tower - 10 bolts.
2) 5, 30m. Climb the face trending slightly left to a short tricky wall, the crux, leading to a groove. Up this to a stance out left.
3) 4, 20m. Trend right up the wall by good sustained climbing then move up and left to a small exposed stance.
4) 5, 20m. Up the face until a couple of tricky moves lead to easier ground. Up the gully to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Fenor, A.Vera 1960s 1965.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, Costa B

Feedback

User Date Notes
VNT 10 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: How it is 242m when if you add pitches' lengths it's 120m...?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How it is 242m when if you add pitches' lengths it's 120m...?
LadyMargaret 26 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, agree second (5) and final (4+) pitches are equally interesting! Used single 60m rope, first pitch was shorter than this (we belayed from the bottom of the route proper not the path). Small cairn marked abseil point; tat or maillons still required for abseil in March 2007. Enjoy!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, agree second (5) and final (4+) pitches are equally interesting! Used single 60m rope, first pitch was shorter than this (we belayed from the bottom of the route proper not the path). Small cairn marked abseil point; tat or maillons still required for abseil in March 2007. Enjoy!
Ewan 25 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A fantastic route. We did the first pitch OK with 50m ropes, and took a rack of wires, but didnt place any...the route is very well bolted. I felt the technical crux of the route was the first move off the 4th pitch. The desent is equipped with twin bolts at each station, but they are twist hangers, not rings so you will need to take some tat to leave behind.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fantastic route. We did the first pitch OK with 50m ropes, and took a rack of wires, but didnt place any...the route is very well bolted. I felt the technical crux of the route was the first move off the 4th pitch. The desent is equipped with twin bolts at each station, but they are twist hangers, not rings so you will need to take some tat to leave behind.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
topsyturvy 4 Mar AltLd O/S
with Pero
with Pero
Pero 4 Mar AltLd Led P2-3.
Led P2-3.
Brook 26 Jan -
with Laufey Rún
with Laufey Rún
libertine 2 Jan AltLd O/S Led P1, 2, 4 (Stay right when approaching ledge with anchors at end of P2). Abseiled from anchors by top of route, but rope not long enough so had to prussick back up (think 60m abseil). Walked up to summit along fixed wires and descend saddle to find shorter abseil (30m).
with The Girl
Led P1, 2, 4 (Stay right when approaching ledge with anchors at end of P2). Abseiled from anchors by top of route, but rope not long enough so had to prussick back up (think 60m abseil). Walked up to summit along fixed wires and descend saddle to find shorter abseil (30m).
with The Girl
payney1973 30 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S Climbing as a three, 2 instructors to 1 student. Beautiful climb, lead in blocks, myself pitch 1&2, Glenn Bloomer pitch 3&4. Interesting mini VF to reach 2 x descent rappels. Great day out!!!
with Zoomer
Climbing as a three, 2 instructors to 1 student. Beautiful climb, lead in blocks, myself pitch 1&2, Glenn Bloomer pitch 3&4. Interesting mini VF to reach 2 x descent rappels. Great day out!!!
with Zoomer
jackdimples1 30 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S Led 3rd pitch. Grades are bang on for Spain
Led 3rd pitch. Grades are bang on for Spain
Auchtubhmor 30 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S
Stefan94 30 Nov, 2019 AltLd
Rodney Coburn 30 Nov, 2019 Lead Lead second (crux) pitch.
Lead second (crux) pitch.
Zoomer 30 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S Climbing as a three, Lee did the first two pitches, I took the last two. Really nice pleasant route, nothing to hard and bolts where you need them. Looking forward to a return visit for the other routes.
Climbing as a three, Lee did the first two pitches, I took the last two. Really nice pleasant route, nothing to hard and bolts where you need them. Looking forward to a return visit for the other routes.
kamilla 8 Nov, 2019 -
Hidden 7 Nov, 2019 AltLd
M_Politsos 24 Oct, 2019 2nd
Mike401 19 Oct, 2019 AltLd
CharHirst13 19 Oct, 2019 AltLd Awesome
with Mike401
Awesome
with Mike401
peterbradshaw101 8 Apr, 2019 AltLd
with lithos
with lithos
lithos 8 Apr, 2019 AltLd P2 and 4. Started from ledge at 10m (thread belay on right) line in RF is too far right. Crux felt fine, much easier than EPN. Top of P4 scappy and loose be wary.
P2 and 4. Started from ledge at 10m (thread belay on right) line in RF is too far right. Crux felt fine, much easier than EPN. Top of P4 scappy and loose be wary.
Hidden 1 Apr, 2019 AltLd
Hidden 1 Apr, 2019 AltLd
Small and weak 1 Apr, 2019 AltLd
Steve Woollard 19 Mar, 2019 Lead
with Ruth
with Ruth
JoggerJohn99 15 Feb, 2019 Lead O/S
with Ann Rutherford
with Ann Rutherford
Gavin mchale ??, 2019 -
Hidden 16 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
jon_gill1 16 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Pete Callaghan
with Pete Callaghan
timreynolds 16 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
katie93 27 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
with td72
with td72
td72 27 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S good but not outstanding. it would be good to do an alternative first pitch up one of the other routes as this would make it more interesting to start.
with katie93
good but not outstanding. it would be good to do an alternative first pitch up one of the other routes as this would make it more interesting to start.
with katie93
HeatherRobertson44 17 Oct, 2018 2nd
Neverathome 30 Jan, 2018 AltLd
with Jim Althans
with Jim Althans
Jessicacrump 20 Jan, 2018 AltLd
betathief 20 Jan, 2018 AltLd
Richard Alderton 21 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Captain P
with Captain P
Paul Sagar u 7 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S A very good route, although a little tough in the full sun of the mid day heat. The first of the 5s felt stiff for the grade? Really good adventure, what with the via Ferrata at the top and the walking + abseil descents.
A very good route, although a little tough in the full sun of the mid day heat. The first of the 5s felt stiff for the grade? Really good adventure, what with the via Ferrata at the top and the walking + abseil descents.
thompsonjr21 12 Oct, 2017 2nd dnf
JGriffiths 12 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf Found it too hot so rapped off the first belay (after already heading down once to pull a dozen cactus needles out of my hand - ouch!)
Found it too hot so rapped off the first belay (after already heading down once to pull a dozen cactus needles out of my hand - ouch!)
Stuart Macfarlane 21 Mar, 2017 AltLd rpt I led pitches 2 & 4.
with Jeanie
I led pitches 2 & 4.
with Jeanie
Hidden 9 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
George_Surf 6 Dec, 2016 AltLd dnf Crap 1st pitch (rachel), not very well described in the book, awkward and spaced gear. Pitch 2 was much better. Rachel fell off the 6a+ variation to p3, rescued her by lowering to the belay then 2 assisted abseils to the floor, helicopter, broken pelvis...
Crap 1st pitch (rachel), not very well described in the book, awkward and spaced gear. Pitch 2 was much better. Rachel fell off the 6a+ variation to p3, rescued her by lowering to the belay then 2 assisted abseils to the floor, helicopter, broken pelvis...
rachelpearce01 6 Dec, 2016 Lead dnf Disaster... First pitch not great and hard to find the right bolts. Bit green and had to down climb when I realised I was going the wrong way. Pitch 2 George led which was decent. Then I went to lead the final pitch doing the 6a+ variation. Just below the roof the rock was quite wet in the line of the bolts so I went slightly left and away from my last draw. Pulled a very large block out which sent me flying off and the. Swung into the rock with my side. Broke my pelvis and had to be helicoptered off ! Bit of a bummer for my climbing holiday ...
with George Sanderson
Disaster... First pitch not great and hard to find the right bolts. Bit green and had to down climb when I realised I was going the wrong way. Pitch 2 George led which was decent. Then I went to lead the final pitch doing the 6a+ variation. Just below the roof the rock was quite wet in the line of the bolts so I went slightly left and away from my last draw. Pulled a very large block out which sent me flying off and the. Swung into the rock with my side. Broke my pelvis and had to be helicoptered off ! Bit of a bummer for my climbing holiday ...
with George Sanderson
Bryan M 23 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S Ps 2 (crux) & 4
with Pero
Ps 2 (crux) & 4
with Pero
Pero 23 Nov, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 19 Dec, 2014 AltLd
Peter Metcalfe 19 Dec, 2014 AltLd
carlh 30 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Climbed with John Makin. A good warm up route for what was to come and a great start to our trip. Lovely climbing on good rock for each pitch. If you walk/scramble up to the first ledge to start 50m ropes are fine.
Climbed with John Makin. A good warm up route for what was to come and a great start to our trip. Lovely climbing on good rock for each pitch. If you walk/scramble up to the first ledge to start 50m ropes are fine.
DylanAsena 2 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Mar, 2014 2nd
Hidden 27 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Mar, 2014 Lead
Hidden 24 Mar, 2014 AltLd
Emma Charters 23 Mar, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 23 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Stuart Macfarlane 22 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Jeanie led 1st & 3rd pitches
with Jeanie
Jeanie led 1st & 3rd pitches
with Jeanie
Private Flounder u 14 Feb, 2014 AltLd
Chris Manasseh 14 Feb, 2014 AltLd Led pp 1+3
Led pp 1+3
Hidden ? Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
brianrunner u 24 Feb, 2013 AltLd good route. the descent is very straightforward. as a guide we were up and down in 2.5 hours
with steve wells
good route. the descent is very straightforward. as a guide we were up and down in 2.5 hours
with steve wells
Hidden 2 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S
gjd 13 Dec, 2010 Lead O/S
with Joe
with Joe
nzrock 12 Sep, 2010 Lead RP Repeated 3rd pitch.Whole climb fully worth its 3 stars.
with DH
Repeated 3rd pitch.Whole climb fully worth its 3 stars.
with DH
Hidden 14 Mar, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 1 Mar, 2010 AltLd
Adam Potter 7 Nov, 2009 AltLd O/S Lead 1st and 3rd pitch
with Seema Desai
Lead 1st and 3rd pitch
with Seema Desai
richardhopton 22 Oct, 2009 AltLd
Darren_R ? Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
steve prior ? Nov, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Andy C
with Andy C
Hidden 15 Oct, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
andybeanland 13 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S Scary abseil!
Scary abseil!
Crewey-Si 21 Apr, 2008 Lead dnf back off from 1st stance due to potnetial sun stroke from rob
with Rob
back off from 1st stance due to potnetial sun stroke from rob
with Rob
Hidden 21 Apr, 2008 2nd dnf
Simon Caldwell 8 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S I led pitches 1 and 3
with Lemming
I led pitches 1 and 3
with Lemming
dangerousoldfool ? Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S First multi pitch on Spanish rock. Superb.
with CarlT
First multi pitch on Spanish rock. Superb.
with CarlT
Andy Say 19 Dec, 2007 AltLd
with nick colton
with nick colton
jcurley 27 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S led 1st
with Horace
led 1st
with Horace
jamie ward 2 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Marcus Harvey
with Marcus Harvey
max_chan u 22 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
mjeffery ? Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Nov, 2006 AltLd
Hidden ? Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
John Postlethwaite ? Oct, 2006 AltLd O/S
with liam
with liam
Darron ??, 2006 -
with Marion
with Marion
Hidden 17 Dec, 2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S
aksys ??, 2000 AltLd
with Jan
with Jan
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Voting
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Neuvo

Grade: 5a ***
(Callosa)