UKC

242m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic, the most popular climb on the cliff and with good reason. Start just right of the fall-line from the groove on the right-hand side of the pillar at a well-trodden area.
1) 4+, 50m. Wander up easy slabs to the 1st bolt then climb the groove via the odd tricky move past a stance moving over left to another on the tip of the tower - 10 bolts.
2) 5, 30m. Climb the face trending slightly left to a short tricky wall, the crux, leading to a groove. Up this to a stance out left.
3) 4, 20m. Trend right up the wall by good sustained climbing then move up and left to a small exposed stance.
4) 5, 20m. Up the face until a couple of tricky moves lead to easier ground. Up the gully to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Fenor, A.Vera 1960s 1965.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa B

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jiri 7 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: In the beginning of the 2nd pitch, climb slightly right from vertical, only after 4th spit left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In the beginning of the 2nd pitch, climb slightly right from vertical, only after 4th spit left.
VNT 10 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: How it is 242m when if you add pitches' lengths it's 120m...?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How it is 242m when if you add pitches' lengths it's 120m...?
LadyMargaret 26 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, agree second (5) and final (4+) pitches are equally interesting! Used single 60m rope, first pitch was shorter than this (we belayed from the bottom of the route proper not the path). Small cairn marked abseil point; tat or maillons still required for abseil in March 2007. Enjoy!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, agree second (5) and final (4+) pitches are equally interesting! Used single 60m rope, first pitch was shorter than this (we belayed from the bottom of the route proper not the path). Small cairn marked abseil point; tat or maillons still required for abseil in March 2007. Enjoy!
Ewan 25 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A fantastic route. We did the first pitch OK with 50m ropes, and took a rack of wires, but didnt place any...the route is very well bolted. I felt the technical crux of the route was the first move off the 4th pitch. The desent is equipped with twin bolts at each station, but they are twist hangers, not rings so you will need to take some tat to leave behind.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fantastic route. We did the first pitch OK with 50m ropes, and took a rack of wires, but didnt place any...the route is very well bolted. I felt the technical crux of the route was the first move off the 4th pitch. The desent is equipped with twin bolts at each station, but they are twist hangers, not rings so you will need to take some tat to leave behind.

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Votes cast 17
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heavy

Grade: 5a ***
(Pliego - Alto de la Muela)

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