UKC

Climbs 20
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 675m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Leo trying Roceja nel Sole © Filippo Ghilardini

Crag features

Small full trad crag (as now), where you can climb on excellent quality rock and medium-low difficulty. The place is secluded and calm, ideal for a day of trad climbing without too much thought; the routes lend themselves to several variations. Ruceja nel Sole, on the other hand, is a nice boulder pitch that can give even the most experienced climbers a hard time. About fifty meters below the house, in the woods, is a beautiful star-cracked “boulder.”

Climbed on typical granitoid gneiss of the area with south-southwest and northwest exposure depending on the portion of the wall being climbed.
Extreme care and respect is recommended for the terrain on which the grad lies, as it obviously pertains to the building. Particular care should be taken not to damage the building's roofing layer by rappelling from route No. 7. Absolutely do not walk on it.

Approach notes

Coming from Turin, along the SS 24 in the direction of Susa, you reach the traffic circle in the center of Borgone Susa where you turn right, into Via Guido Bobba, follow it forwarding through the houses to the Church square, from here take the road to the left (Via Felice Falco) and then the not very evident fork again to the left (Via della Costa) in the direction of the Frazione Gandoglio. Just before the hamlet you will come across a repeater, where you can park comfortably (same parking lot as the Sentinel cliff). However, it is possible to advance further in the direction of the houses, omitting a fork on the right and parking very carefully along the fairly narrow road, on the downstream side, just before the road becomes unpaved.

When you reach the indicated point, continue to walk along the dirt road halfway up the hillside with short up-and-down stretches, pass a bar and come to a fork in the road, where the dirt road descends and reaches Borella Inferiore. Do not descend to the house but take the nice path with the Fiacet sign on the right.
In a short time you will skirt an area of cultivated terraces and a well-preserved votive pillar.
Here there is a junction that on the right leads to Fiacet (omit), and on the left descends to Chiantusello (parking lot for Rocca Penna and Libro). Then take a left and skirt a first building, past a combale you come to the vicinity of another abandoned, larger building with a valley-facing elevation characterized by three large windows. The building should be passed on its front, and at its end turn right, just near the edge.
From here follow the terracing more or less on the hillside (cairns) for about 120 meters, until you reach the small isolated building, on the roof of which route No. 7 starts. The other streets are still slightly to the left of the house. Tot. 15 minutes from the car, 90 meters positive elevation gain.

It is also possible to access from Chiantusello (Rocca Penna and Libro parking lot) by following the path from the hamlet to Fiacet. A few meters after a combale and the turnoff to Libro (red and white webbing) you will notice an obvious ramp on the left, cairns. Tot. 20-25 minutes from the car, 190 meters positive elevation gain.

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Climbs at this crag

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