Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 548m a.s.l
Traditional sandstone area in Northern Bohemia, belonging amongst the numerous Elbtal sandstone areas. Ostrov is only a small local crag, suitable mainly for adventurous sandstone beginners and intermediate climbers. The rock belongs to the hardest types sandstone in the CZ and is very similar to gritstone in character.
Most of the climbing is on sandstone towers in the valley covered by rocks on all sides. Ostrov is traditional area: most routes are equipped with ringbolts in crux sections (usually between 1 to 4 per route), abseil stations, and logbooks. Most towers are up to 30m tall.
Ostrov is also a great high-lining venue. There are many sandstone areas close by (Tisa, Rajec, Sneznik, Elbtal, or Bielatal over in Germany), and a lot of unaccounted bouldering in the forest around.
Remember the most important ethics on Czech sandstone: No climbing on wet rock, no metal gear (excluding placed protection), no chalk.
Accommodation: In the valley is an excellent and cheap Autocamp "Pod Cisarem" which has a pub. Expect great lager and big portions of traditional Czech food (both meat and veggie/vegan options). There is also a hotel and a few huts in the village. Wild camping is forbidden.
Guidebook: The definitive guidebook is now out of print. Refer to the selected guidebook "Nejkrasnejsi cesty na pisku" ("The most beautiful routes on sandstone"), or use the Czech website/app Skalni oblasti.
Grades: The area uses its specific "Saxony sandstone grading" which are not on UKC. The grades here have been converted to the UIAA; the original Saxony grade is the roman number in the route name.
Conveniently located to the E55 motorway between Prague and Dresden – take the exit towards Petrovice and continue towards Tisa.
It is also possible to take a public transport from Prague or Dresden: a train to Decin, followed by a bus to Tisa.
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