UKC

350m, 10 pitches. 3a, 4b, 4b, 4a, 4b, 4a, 4a, 6a, 5b, 5a.

Recent rockfall (April 2017) has struck the bottom of this route. It's OK to climb but take care as there may be some debris.

Sparsely bolted so beware of tricky routefinding. I highly recommend this topo of Mosoraški instead of *any* guidebook: http://www.mdclimb.com/Topos/Mosora%C5%A1ki_topo_v1.1.pdf

B. Kambic, B. Kulic 1957.

Ticklists

Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe)

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User Date Notes
Jack Geldard 25 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First half of route follows quite broken ‘traditional ground’. Very few bolts means exact route finding can be confusing but essentially it’s possible to climb anywhere, just keep aiming for the old cemented ring belays. After pitch 4 it becomes easier to follow and better climbing. There are just enough bolts to protect (plenty on the crux), but a light trad rack of say 6 wires and 3 mid size cams would be helpful for those pushing their grade. We didn’t take any which was fine but I would have placed 1 or 2 cams if we had taken them. 3.5 hours up. 50m rope easily long enough. Walk off very well marked. The linked topo was fine (thanks for a free topo!) and also the guidebook is fine. Neither are perfectly accurate but both are adequate!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First half of route follows quite broken ‘traditional ground’. Very few bolts means exact route finding can be confusing but essentially it’s possible to climb anywhere, just keep aiming for the old cemented ring belays. After pitch 4 it becomes easier to follow and better climbing. There are just enough bolts to protect (plenty on the crux), but a light trad rack of say 6 wires and 3 mid size cams would be helpful for those pushing their grade. We didn’t take any which was fine but I would have placed 1 or 2 cams if we had taken them. 3.5 hours up. 50m rope easily long enough. Walk off very well marked. The linked topo was fine (thanks for a free topo!) and also the guidebook is fine. Neither are perfectly accurate but both are adequate!
Krustythebrown 17 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant fun, even the polished crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant fun, even the polished crux.
Marko Duksi 20 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Runout on all but the crux pitch so it's very easy to stray off route. I have retrieved lots of gear from parties bivouacking and then bailing. You would do much better to use the topo provided (http://www.mdclimb.com/Topos/Mosora%C5%A1ki_topo_v1.1.pdf) instead of a guidebook.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Runout on all but the crux pitch so it's very easy to stray off route. I have retrieved lots of gear from parties bivouacking and then bailing. You would do much better to use the topo provided (http://www.mdclimb.com/Topos/Mosora%C5%A1ki_topo_v1.1.pdf) instead of a guidebook.
krystian.kostecki 10 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The crux is very polished and thus may felt hard, the rest is rather nice. Lower pitches require a little bit of orientation and trad rack to backup. Be aware of the descent because at night you may be lost, especially on the right (front-facing) variant - at some point (when you get to the trees level) you will need to search for cairns that lead you to the other side of the right-hand (looking down) pillar/ridge.
Show beta
βeta: The crux is very polished and thus may felt hard, the rest is rather nice. Lower pitches require a little bit of orientation and trad rack to backup. Be aware of the descent because at night you may be lost, especially on the right (front-facing) variant - at some point (when you get to the trees level) you will need to search for cairns that lead you to the other side of the right-hand (looking down) pillar/ridge.

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High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
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Votes cast 14
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