150m, 5 pitches.
4a, 4a, 4c, 3, 4c, 2
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Richard Goodey | 6 Oct, 2024 |
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βeta: Best to abseil from the top, the scramble descent looks sketchy. With twin 60s you are down from the top in one abseil. Not sure with a shorter rope but there are bolts all over the face. From the top of the last pitch there are two bolts at the top of the last steep section but you arrive on flatish ground and ten metres up and on the left are two good bolts to drop down the left side. We belayed from them. The route is bolted but certainly not a sport route. The final pitch is 50m and has 6 bolts. The third pitch, aim for the crest of the ridge and don’t follow the easy ground to the left and a bolt, you clip a piton then head upwards. 3 bolts I think in 45m and one of them is loose and home made. I’d say the route deserves to be graded VS 4c if you supplement it with a small rack. 1 set of wires and 4 cams is enough. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Best to abseil from the top, the scramble descent looks sketchy. With twin 60s you are down from the top in one abseil. Not sure with a shorter rope but there are bolts all over the face. From the top of the last pitch there are two bolts at the top of the last steep section but you arrive on flatish ground and ten metres up and on the left are two good bolts to drop down the left side. We belayed from them. The route is bolted but certainly not a sport route. The final pitch is 50m and has 6 bolts. The third pitch, aim for the crest of the ridge and don’t follow the easy ground to the left and a bolt, you clip a piton then head upwards. 3 bolts I think in 45m and one of them is loose and home made. I’d say the route deserves to be graded VS 4c if you supplement it with a small rack. 1 set of wires and 4 cams is enough. |
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| Alasdair13 | 31 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Think a UK 4+ leader would struggle with the climbing and runouts. There's an ab station at the top of the grade 2 pitch at the bottom of the orange wall. 30m ab takes you down to just above the scree. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Think a UK 4+ leader would struggle with the climbing and runouts. There's an ab station at the top of the grade 2 pitch at the bottom of the orange wall. 30m ab takes you down to just above the scree. |
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Route of Interest
Mann oder Memme
Grade: 4c ***
(Paklenica Gorge)