At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
Altitude 187m a.s.l
Palisade Head © Martin Bagshaw
Lots of very good crack climbing from fingers to chimneys and harder face routes. Most people only top rope, with the more experienced leading, often after top rope practice, which seems to be the norm. The guidebook doesn't really provide enough information for the onsight leader - at least those who are used to modern European guidebooks. Many climbs would require multiple sizes of the same cam to lead (especially Laceration Jam and Christmas Crack). Other wide chimneys (e.g. The Great Bird Chimney, possibly Danger High Voltage) would be either unprotected, or very run out.
Be prepared for a barrage of dumb questions from tourists if climbing around the Ampitheatre area, and watch out for kids who may be into throwing rocks off the top. Other than that, quite possibly a world class crag.
Less than 5 mins walk from parking. Abseil descent from cliff top to access each buttress, or awkward scramble/walk down to a handful of routes at the Southern end of the crag.
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