Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
Rockfax Description
Start below a short left-facing corner at the top of the crag. Weave an intricate way up to it. © Rockfax
FA. Matt Jones 28/Feb/2008.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RodsPG | 10 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Deffo some tricky moves on the start but well worth the climb | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Deffo some tricky moves on the start but well worth the climb |
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| harold walmsley | 15 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a brown patch where a crucial flake used to be just above the shale band. It is a longer reach now but there is a remnant that can be used. The start has gained some incuts and is no longer the crux. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a brown patch where a crucial flake used to be just above the shale band. It is a longer reach now but there is a remnant that can be used. The start has gained some incuts and is no longer the crux. |
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| harold walmsley | 5 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Duelling Banjos is the original name of the route that was called Magwitch before first ascent name and details were discovered | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Duelling Banjos is the original name of the route that was called Magwitch before first ascent name and details were discovered |
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| harold walmsley | 22 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: I replaced the rusty-looking lower-off bolt with a new 316 SS bolt plus SS maillons and ring so there are now two decent-looking lower-offs. I also removed a few loose flakes from the route. A large flake was removed at start of the moves left about half way up, making this section harder, but for me the crux is still the start. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I replaced the rusty-looking lower-off bolt with a new 316 SS bolt plus SS maillons and ring so there are now two decent-looking lower-offs. I also removed a few loose flakes from the route. A large flake was removed at start of the moves left about half way up, making this section harder, but for me the crux is still the start. |
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Logged Ascents
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Borderline
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Trevor Quarry)