UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.

Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner.  If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC.  In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access. 

Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property". 

 

16m.

Rockfax Description
The left flank of the rib to the right of The Urchin. Start 1m right of The Urchin. Climb a flake and rib to the right edge of the ledge on The Urchin. Pass two short boreholes, reach a jug up left and continue steeply to good holds on the rib. Finish directly. © Rockfax

FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 08/Aug/2019.

Feedback

User Date Notes
gazj1986 24 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Rest to figure out move over top bulge, faff over nothing using smear and high foot
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rest to figure out move over top bulge, faff over nothing using smear and high foot

Logged Ascents

135 users have logged this
3 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Loading Notifications...