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Climbs 116
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 193m a.s.l

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How a friday should always be spent © kieranrex

Crag features

Two walls of solid limestone (30m high), one clean, high-quality solid overhanging, full of sportroutes, the other slightly more dirty and vegetated. A convenient bridge spans the Gorge, useful for photography.

There's a small crag below the gorge right next to the river with a few easier pitches.

Approach notes

Start at the T-junction at the west end of the village of Pantymwyn (SJ192646); follow the farm access road down to the west, marked as a public footpath. Go through a gate to the bottom of the hill, then leave the road at the sharp left hand bend and continue straight across a stile. Follow the path for 50 meters and the Gorge will come into view.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Bouldering (2017)
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
The lovely fence is still there! Right in the way!
Jamie Taylor - 18/Jul/16
Went there at the weekend to boulder but they have put a fence up it doesn't say you can't boulder, but the fence is right where you want your pad
GouldHarry - 04/Jul/16
A large piece of rock with a jug for Firestarter on it has become loose and visibly moves when weight is put on it, my advice is steer clear.
Alastair McWilliam - 14/Jun/15
"The BMC have been in contact with the landagent over access to the gorge. The current position is that the owner permits a commercial abseiling company to use the gorge, but has not banned access for recreational climbers." Taken from BMC RAD 12MAY09
dafrob - 12/May/09
Further to Allanís comments: Access has been lost to the Gorge. The situation is currently in the hands of solicitors who are acting in the interests of the land owner. At this stage, the potential for climbers gaining access in the future is unclear. Until all the legal angles have been addressed and possibilities for potential climbing access discussed, please don't aggravate the situation by climbing / trespassing within the fenced area. No developments are expected within the next 1 - 2 months. Check here or the BMC website for updates. The lower bouldering areas adjacent to the river are un-effected by the restrictions. Note: The Gorge and surrounding area form part of a SSSI.
John Elcock - 01/Sep/07
please note the local landowner has now restricted access to the crag and all the caves along the river they are all fenced and gated you have to contact a solicitor in chester to gain access cheers allan shaw
ashaw - 10/Aug/07
About one and a half miles NW if you follow the Leete path toward Rhydymwyn, crosssing Trial hill,(road) there is a disused quarry - good for abseiling. TK (Ex Pantymwyn.)
Anthony King - 28/Jun/06
Don't go there at weekends unless you like competing with massive groups of abseilers!
CENSORED - 05/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

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