Altitude 193m a.s.l
How a friday should always be spent © kieranrex
The Devil's Gorge is a huge narrow limestone slit in the hillside, that on first viewing, is bound to impress. Closer inspection reveals that the gorge's steep side leans out over the sunless base and holds a clutch of very good stamina sport pitches in the 7th and 8th grades. The rock is generally reasonable but has sections of crystalline formations that are crumbly, so care is needed where routes come into contact with these areas. The gorge has seen plenty of attention and development in recent times and the majority of the gear is now in excellent condition. There is also a lot of higher-end quality bouldering to be found just outside the gorge entrance.
The Devil's Gorge receives very little sun and can remain wet throughout the winter and into late spring. Seepage is persistent on the steep side but once dry, the wall provides sheltered climbing in heavy rain. The base of the gorge can be very muddy and a rope bag is recommended in anything but drought conditions. Many of the lower sections of the routes will need cleaning before an ascent. The slabby wall has some good sections of rock that would give some reasonable pitches if cleaned up.
Follow the A494 ring road around Mold following directions for Ruthin. Once on the south side of Mold, the road climbs through the village of Gwernymynydd. After 1 mile the road bends right and flattens out. Continue for another 0.5 miles and turn right, signposted Gwernaffield and Pantymwyn. Follow this road for 1 mile to a crossroads and turn left. Go 0.8 miles and, at a sharp right-hand bend, go straight on and park immediately on the right. Please park with consideration.
Walk straight on a short distance and take the tarmac track ahead as the road bends left. Cross a cattle grid and continue downhill to a sharp left bend in the track. Go straight on via a path over a stile and the edge of the gorge is reached. The bridge over the gorge is best reached via the right rim. To gain the base of the gorge, walk 20m right (looking out) from the bridge to a good track that drops steeply to the river and the mouth of the gorge.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Luke Owens