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Climbs 122
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 193m a.s.l
Faces N

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How a friday should always be spent © kieranrex

Crag features

The Devil's Gorge is a huge narrow limestone slit in the hillside, that on first viewing, is bound to impress. Closer inspection reveals that the gorge's steep side leans out over the sunless base and holds a clutch of very good stamina sport pitches in the 7th and 8th grades. The rock is generally reasonable but has sections of crystalline formations that are crumbly, so care is needed where routes come into contact with these areas. The gorge has seen plenty of attention and development in recent times and the majority of the gear is now in excellent condition. There is also a lot of higher-end quality bouldering to be found just outside the gorge entrance.

The Devil's Gorge receives very little sun and can remain wet throughout the winter and into late spring. Seepage is persistent on the steep side but once dry, the wall provides sheltered climbing in heavy rain. The base of the gorge can be very muddy and a rope bag is recommended in anything but drought conditions. Many of the lower sections of the routes will need cleaning before an ascent. The slabby wall has some good sections of rock that would give some reasonable pitches if cleaned up.

Approach notes

Follow the A494 ring road around Mold following directions for Ruthin. Once on the south side of Mold, the road climbs through the village of Gwernymynydd. After 1 mile the road bends right and flattens out. Continue for another 0.5 miles and turn right, signposted Gwernaffield and Pantymwyn. Follow this road for 1 mile to a crossroads and turn left. Go 0.8 miles and, at a sharp right-hand bend, go straight on and park immediately on the right. Please park with consideration.

Walk straight on a short distance and take the tarmac track ahead as the road bends left. Cross a cattle grid and continue downhill to a sharp left bend in the track. Go straight on via a path over a stile and the edge of the gorge is reached. The bridge over the gorge is best reached via the right rim. To gain the base of the gorge, walk 20m right (looking out) from the bridge to a good track that drops steeply to the river and the mouth of the gorge.

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Bouldering (2017)
North Wales Limestone (2014)
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
The lovely fence is still there! Right in the way!
Jamie Taylor - 18/Jul/16
Went there at the weekend to boulder but they have put a fence up it doesn't say you can't boulder, but the fence is right where you want your pad
GouldHarry - 04/Jul/16
A large piece of rock with a jug for Firestarter on it has become loose and visibly moves when weight is put on it, my advice is steer clear.
Alastair McWilliam - 14/Jun/15
"The BMC have been in contact with the landagent over access to the gorge. The current position is that the owner permits a commercial abseiling company to use the gorge, but has not banned access for recreational climbers." Taken from BMC RAD 12MAY09
dafrob - 12/May/09
Further to Allanís comments: Access has been lost to the Gorge. The situation is currently in the hands of solicitors who are acting in the interests of the land owner. At this stage, the potential for climbers gaining access in the future is unclear. Until all the legal angles have been addressed and possibilities for potential climbing access discussed, please don't aggravate the situation by climbing / trespassing within the fenced area. No developments are expected within the next 1 - 2 months. Check here or the BMC website for updates. The lower bouldering areas adjacent to the river are un-effected by the restrictions. Note: The Gorge and surrounding area form part of a SSSI.
John Elcock - 01/Sep/07
please note the local landowner has now restricted access to the crag and all the caves along the river they are all fenced and gated you have to contact a solicitor in chester to gain access cheers allan shaw
ashaw - 10/Aug/07
About one and a half miles NW if you follow the Leete path toward Rhydymwyn, crosssing Trial hill,(road) there is a disused quarry - good for abseiling. TK (Ex Pantymwyn.)
Anthony King - 28/Jun/06
Don't go there at weekends unless you like competing with massive groups of abseilers!
CENSORED - 05/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

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