Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
The High Girdle, probably 1980 © sj nicholson
The quarry is buried in some trees just off the path and so does not get copious amounts of sun despite its aspect. As the guide says, "Upon initial inspection it would seem Parbold is almost as bad as some of the things people climb on in the South West! However some of the climbs are quite good and deserve more attention, which would raise the status of the venue to that of a typical small crag in the Peak District."
Tends to seep after heavy rain and due to its low popularity some routes need cleaning. The lower grade routes are generally good but unprotected, with the best routes being the top end graded routes. Some of the lower graded routes a loose. Best route "A Worthwhile Pastime - But a Sad Ambition" (E5 6c, was A2) with a monster crux above a rotten old peg that hardly holds your body weight.
The two sport routes are among the best in the quarry and there is plenty of scope for bouldering at low level and on the smaller walls with a mat. Dont forget insect repellent in summer.
It is definitely recommended to take a brush as some routes need a lot of cleaning. Trees at the top give excellent anchors making top roping popular, the crag does offer exciting opportunities for the beginner.
From the lay-by opposite the restaurant follow a narrow path downhill with a wall then wire fence on the left. After the second set of metal bollards and a steeper descent, swing right into the quarry above the End Bay. The crag isn't initially visible via the approach path.
The access situation is currently unclear. The UKC website was contacted by an agent of the landowner to say "no climbing allowed". The agent was advised to contact the BMC but has not responded to further contact from UKC. Climbs are recorded for historical purposes. The quarry or possibly just the surrounding area between the climbing and the main road are the subject of a dispute over future use as a landfill site. There is no right of access to this crag. Remain polite at all times.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer UKC Logbooks