Climbs 40
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 1196m a.s.l
Faces S
Half way up on "New Holland". © Nike Chiesa Turiano
Vertical wall of high-quality gneiss. The Groscavallo area was first explored in the late 1960s and early 1970s by Gian Carlo Grassi and his friends, who established several aid routes, though none gained significant popularity. In 1989, the crag was selected to host the FASI Italian Sport Climbing Championship, giving rise to its current name: Competition Crag. At the time, the wall featured a handful of routes bolted by Luca Ferraris and Alfredo Bonani, but its popularity declined in the following years. That changed in the early 2000s, when Massimo Costa, Gianni Ribotto, and Diego Re undertook a major re-bolting and development effort. They refurbished the existing routes and equipped many new ones, turning the crag into a must-visit destination for sport climbers in the valley.
The climbing style is generally technical, featuring crimps and edges, with routes ranging from 20 to 30 meters in length. Thanks to its south-facing exposure and the relatively cool conditions of the upper valley, the crag is ideal in mid-season. However, it can also be a good option on warm winter days or overcast summer ones. Some lines remain dry even during wet weather.
Additionally, a few routes can be climbed in greenpoint style.
Park along the road just after the bridge that leads to the village of Campopietra. You’ll easily spot the trail, marked by a sign, which climbs over the roadside wall - follow it from there.
Please stay on the path!
Both the meadow and the woodland are privately owned and exploit for farming, so please be respectful.
There are no comments from visitors to this crag. |
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