Altitude 102m a.s.l
Parete Nord, Monte Monaco, San Vito lo Capo, Sicily © Simon Alden
The forboding dark side of Monte Monaco, Parete Nord, offers some of the most challenging multi-pitch climbs on the island. The routes are long, demanding and seldom climbed. Most of the routes are sparsely equipped and require a full rack of gear, and much of the fixed gear is old and in need of replacing. Carrying some spare slings and threads to leave behind is advised. Twin 60m ropes are required for the routes which don't top out.
The best approach is from the right side from Pizzo Monaco. Go around the headland away from San Vito Lo Capo on the SP63, or the main bypass road around the town if coming from the south. Locate a dirt road for parking on the crag side of the bypass road, about 100m south of the junction with the SP63. Follow the gravel track southeast for approximately 260m. Turn left into the field which is just before the final field next to the house. Follow a path for 150m to the base of Pizzo Monaco and go leftwards around this to reach the much bigger Parete Nord. The left side can be approached from the base of Cattedrale nel Deserto.
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